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Cover of Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

1886

William Carew Hazlitt · 87 readable pages · 95 recipe records · bibliographic and historical survey of English cookery literature

From the librarian's dossier · AI-generated, grounded in the scanned text

This 1886 volume by William Carew Hazlitt is not itself a cookbook of usable recipes but a scholarly survey and bibliography of English cookery literature and dining customs from antiquity through the eighteenth century. Hazlitt, working as an antiquarian and bibliographer, traces how cooking practices, cookbooks, kitchens, and table manners evolved across centuries, drawing on manuscripts, household records, and printed cookery books such as the Form of Cury, Robert May's works, Hannah Wolley, E. Smith's Compleat Housewife, and Hannah Glasse's Art of Cookery. Long stretches quote or excerpt period recipes directly, giving the reader a taste of Tudor, Stuart, and Georgian cookery in its own words, alongside discussion of diet among different social classes, kitchen equipment, meal structures, and the slow spread of forks and plates. The book functions as a reader's guide to older cookbooks rather than a standalone kitchen manual. Modern readers interested in food history, the sociology of dining, or the bibliographic history of English cookery will find it a useful survey, though it demands patience with dense historical prose and antiquarian digressions. It closes with an alphabetical index covering the full range of topics discussed.

The book opens with an introductory historical survey (section 1) tracing food practices from ancient civilizations through early England. Sections 2 through 6 move chronologically through the history of English and Scottish cookery books, from medieval manuscripts and royal feasts to named printed works by authors such as Robert May, Hannah Wolley, E. Smith, Hannah Glasse, and later figures like Dr. Kitchener and Eliza Acton, with sections 4 and 5 pausing to reproduce substantial extracts of recipes from E. Smith's Compleat Housewife. Sections 6 and 7 turn to social and economic history, discussing the diet of yeomen and the poor, provision prices, bread, sugar, and beverages. Sections 7 and 8 examine kitchen design, utensils, staff hierarchies, and the shift from trenchers to plates and from two meals a day to more. Section 9 covers table etiquette, tavern dining, and closes with a full alphabetical index to the work.

This is a historical and bibliographic study, not a practical modern cookbook, and the recipe extracts it contains (notably in sections 4 and 5) reflect eighteenth-century and earlier ingredients, quantities, and methods that are not suited to direct modern kitchen use. Some dishes described, such as pies constructed so that live birds fly out when cut open, or heavily spiced and sugared preparations, reflect period tastes and presentation customs rather than food safety standards of today. The text also references archaic domestic and social practices, including feudal obligations and household hierarchies, alongside genuine culinary content, so readers should distinguish social history from cooking instruction. As a scanned nineteenth-century antiquarian text, the material may be subject to OCR errors, especially in archaic spellings, recipe titles, and quoted period vocabulary.

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Recipes from this book

95 records extracted from the text, showing the first 50 in reading order. Each links to a modern interpretation.

Poached Eggsp. 20Blackcapsp. 27Dutch-beefp. 31Dry Mutton as Dutch-Beefp. 31Stuffed Shoulder or Leg of Mutton with Oystersp. 31Marinade for a Leg of Lambp. 32Leg of Mutton a la Daubep. 32Fried Cucumbers for Mutton Saucep. 32Rocketsp. 32Florendine of Vealp. 32Turevierp. 32Hams of Pork like Westphaliap. 33Ragout of Pigs-Earsp. 33Collar a Pigp. 33Fricasy of Double Tripep. 33Capers and Samphire Stewp. 33Potted Swanp. 33Poloep. 34Pulpatoon of Pigeonsp. 34Battalia Piep. 34Keeping Green Peasp. 34Olio Piep. 34Lumber Piep. 35Very Fine Hogs Puddingsp. 35Plumb-Porridgep. 35New-College Puddingsp. 36Cabbage Puddingp. 36Spread-Eagle Puddingp. 36Calf's Foot Puddingp. 36Chesnut Puddingp. 37Brown-bread Puddingp. 37Baked Sack Puddingp. 37Orange Puddingp. 37Orange Puddingp. 37French-Barley Puddingp. 37Skirret Pyep. 38Cabbage-Lettuce Pyep. 38Potato or Lemon Cheesecakesp. 38Almond Cheesecakesp. 38Light Wigsp. 38Very Good Wigsp. 38Carrot or Parsnip Puffsp. 39Tansyp. 39Sack Creamp. 39Quince Creamp. 39Quince Creamp. 39Pistachia Creamp. 39White Jelly of Quincesp. 39Harfs-Horn Jellyp. 39The Queen's Cheesep. 40

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87 readable pages. A dot marks pages with recipe records.

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