The “ Liber Cure Cocorum,” which is
apparently extant only in a fifteenth century
MS., is a metrical treatise, instructing its
readers how to prepare certain dishes, con-
diments and accessories; and presents, for
the most part, a repetition of what has already
occurred in earlier and more comprehensive
undertakings. It is a curious aid to our
knowledge of the manner in which the
table of the well-to-do Englishman was
furnished in the time of Henry VI., and
it is so far special, that it deals with the sub-
ject more from a middle-class point of view
than the “ Regulations for the Royal House-
hold,” and other similar compilations, which I
have to bring under notice. The names,
as usual, are often misleading, as in blanc
manger , which is very different from our blanc-
mange ; and the receipt for “ goose in a hoj?
6o
Cookery Books.
pot ” leaves one in doubt as to its adaptability
to the modern palate. The poetical am-
bition of the author has proved a source ot
embarrassment here and there; and in the
receipt “for a service on a fish-day” the
practitioner is prayed within four lines to
cover his white herring for God’s sake, and
lay mustard over his red for God’s love, be-
cause sake and love rhyme with take and above.
The next collection of receipts, which
exists in a complete and homogeneous shape,
is the “ Noble Book of Cookery,” of which
an early MS. copy at Holkham was edited
in 1882 by Mrs. Napier, but which had al-
ready been printed by Pynson in 1500, and
subsequently by his successor, John Byddell.
This interesting and important volume com-
mences with a series of descriptions of certain
royal and noble entertainments given on
various occasions from the time of Henry IV.
to that of Edward IV., and then proceeds to
furnish a series of directions for the cook of
a king’s or prince’s household ; for, although
both at the outset and the conclusion we are
told that these dishes were calculated for all
Cookery Books.
6 1
estates, it is abundantly obvious that they
were such as never then, or very long subse-
quently, reached much lower than the court
or the aristocracy. There is a less complete
copy here of the feast at the enthronement
of Archbishop Nevile. I regret that neither
of the old printed copies is at present acces-
sible. That of 1500 was formerly in the
library at Bulstrode, and I was given by the
late Mr. Bradshaw to understand that the same
copy (no other being known) is probably at
Longleat. By referring to Herbert’s “ Typo-
graphical Antiquities,” anyone may see that,
if his account (so far as it goes) is to be
trusted, the printed copy varies from the
Holkham MS. in many verbal particulars,
and gives the date of Nevile’s Feast as 1465.
The compilation usually known as the
“ Book of St. Albans,” i486, is, perhaps, next
to the “ Noble Book of Cookery,” the oldest
receptacle for information on the subject in
hand. The former, however, deals with cook-
ery only in an incidental and special way.
Like Arnold’s Chronicle, the St. Albans
volume is a miscellany comprehending nearly
6 2
Cookery Books.
Page 19
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The “ Liber Cure Cocorum,” which is apparently extant only in a fifteenth century MS., is a metrical treatise, instructing its readers how to prepare certain dishes, condiments and accessories; and presents, for the most part, a repetition of what has already occurred in earlier and more comprehensive undertakings. It is a curious aid to our knowledge of the manner in which the table of the well-to-do Englishman was furnished in the time of Henry VI., and it is so far special, that it deals with the subject more from a middle-class point of view than the “ Regulations for the Royal Household,” and other similar compilations, which I have to bring under notice. The names, as usual, are often misleading, as in blanc manger , which is very different from our blancmange ; and the receipt for "goose in a hot pot"
6o
Cookery Books.
pot ” leaves one in doubt as to its adaptability to the modern palate. The poetical ambition of the author has proved a source ot embarrassment here and there; and in the receipt “for a service on a fish-day” the practitioner is prayed within four lines to cover his white herring for God’s sake, and lay mustard over his red for God’s love, because sake and love rhyme with take and above.
The next collection of receipts, which exists in a complete and homogeneous shape, is the “ Noble Book of Cookery,” of which an early MS. copy at Holkham was edited in 1882 by Mrs. Napier, but which had already been printed by Pynson in 1500, and subsequently by his successor, John Byddell. This interesting and important volume commences with a series of descriptions of certain royal and noble entertainments given on various occasions from the time of Henry IV. to that of Edward IV., and then proceeds to furnish a series of directions for the cook of a king’s or prince’s household ; for, although both at the outset and the conclusion we are told that these dishes were calculated for all
Cookery Books.
6 1
estates, it is abundantly obvious that they were such as never then, or very long subsequently, reached much lower than the court or the aristocracy. There is a less complete copy here of the feast at the enthronement of Archbishop Nevile. I regret that neither of the old printed copies is at present accessible. That of 1500 was formerly in the library at Bulstrode, and I was given by the late Mr. Bradshaw to understand that the same copy (no other being known) is probably at Longleat. By referring to Herbert’s “ Typographical Antiquities,” anyone may see that, if his account (so far as it goes) is to be trusted, the printed copy varies from the Holkham MS. in many verbal particulars, and gives the date of Nevile’s Feast as 1465.
The compilation usually known as the “ Book of St. Albans,” i486, is, perhaps, next to the “ Noble Book of Cookery,” the oldest receptacle for information on the subject in hand. The former, however, deals with cookery only in an incidental and special way. Like Arnold’s Chronicle, the St. Albans volume is a miscellany comprehending nearly
6 2
Cookery Books.