FoodNet

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

1886

Page 62

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
In Russell’s “Book of Nurture,” composed about 1450, it occurs as an ingredient in hippocras; and one collects from a letter sent by Sir Edward Wotton to Lord Cobham from Calais in 1546, that at that time the quantities imported were larger, and the price reduced ; for Wotton advises his corre- spondent of a consignment of five-and-twenty loaves at six shillings the loaf. One loaf Meats and Drinks. 195 was equal to ten pounds ; this brought the commodity down to eight pence a pound of fifteenth century money. The sugar of Cyprus was also highly esteemed; that of Bezi, in the Straits of Sunda, was the most plentiful ; but the West Indian produce, as well as that of Mauritius, Madeira, and other cane-growing countries, was unknown. Of bread, the fifteenth century had several descriptions in use : pain-main or bread of very fine flour, wheat-bread, barley-meal bread, bran-bread, bean-bread, pease-bread, oat-bread or oat-cakes, hard-bread, and un- leavened bread. The poor often used a mix- ture of rye, lentils, and oatmeal, varied ac- cording to the season and district. The author of “ The Serving-man’s Com- fort,” 1598, however, seems to say that it was counted by the poorer sort at that time a hardship only to be tolerated in a dear year to mix beans and peas with their corn, and he adds : “ So must I yield you a loaf of coarse cockle, having no acquaint- ance with coin to buy corn.” Meats and Drinks. 196 In a Nominate of this period mention is made of “oblys,” or small round loaves, perhaps like the old-fashioned “turnover”; and we come across the explicit phrase, a loaf of bread, for the first time, a pictorial vocabulary of the period even furnishing us with a representation of its usual form. Nor were the good folks of those days with- out their simnels, cracknels, and other sorts of cakes for the table, among which in the wastel we recognise the equivalent of the modern French gateau. Besides march-pain or pain-main, and pain-puff, two sorts baked on special occa- sions, and rather entering into the class of con- fectionery, our better-to-do ancestors usually employed three descriptions of bread : man- chete for the master’s table, made of fine boulted flour ; chete, of unboulted flour, but not mixed with any coarser ingredient ; and brown-bread, composed of flour and rye meal, and known as viaslin (mystelon). A bushel of wheat, in a romance of the thirteenth century, is estimated to produce twenty loaves ; but the statement is obviously Meats and Drinks. 1 97 to be taken with allowance. The manchet was sometimes thought to be sufficient with- out butter, as we now eat a scone. In the “Conceits of Old Hobson,” 1607, the worthy haberdasher of the Poultry gives some friends what is facetiously described as a “light” banquet — a cup of wine and a manchet of bread on a trencher for each guest, in an apartment illuminated with five hundred candles.