FoodNet

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

1886

Page 67

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
In the North of England, the bake-stone , originally of the material to which it owed its name, but at a very early date constructed of iron, with the old appellations retained as usual, was the universal machinery for baking, and was placed on the Branderi, an iron frame which was fixed on the top of the fire- place, and consisted of iron bars, with a sliding or slott bar, to shift according to the circumstances. The tripod which held the cooking-vessel over the wood flame, among the former inhabitants of Britain, has not been en- tirely effaced. It is yet to be seen here and there in out-of-the-way corners and places ; and in India they use one constructed of clay, and differently contrived. The most primitive • " Environs of London,” ist ed., Surrey, pp. 502-3. 212 The Kitchen. pots for setting over the fire on the tripod were probably of bronze. The tripod seems to be substantially iden- tical with what was known in Nidderdale as the kail-pot. “ This was formerly in com- mon use,” says Mr. Lucas ; “ a round iron pan, about ten inches deep and eighteen inches across, with a tight-fitting, convex lid. It was provided with three legs. The kail- pot, as it was called, was used for cooking pies, and was buried bodily in burning peat. As the lower peats became red-hot, they drew them from underneath, and placed them on the top. The kail-pot may still be seen on a few farms.” This was about 1870. The writer is doubtless correct in supposing that this utensil was originally employed for cooking kail or cabbage and other green stuff. Three rods of iron or hard wood lashed to- gether, with a hook for taking the handle of the kettle, formed, no doubt, the original tripod. But among some of the tribes of the North of Europe, and in certain Tartar, Indian, and other communities, we see no The Kitchen. 213 such rudimentary substitute for a grate, but merely two uprights and a horizontal rest, supporting a chain ; and in the illustration to the thirteenth or fourteenth century MS., once part of the abbatial library at St. Albans, a nearer approach to the modern jack is ap- parent in the suspension of the vessel over the flame by a chain attached to the centre of a fireplace. Not the tripod, therefore, but the other type must be thought to have been the germ of the later-day apparatus, which yielded in its turn to the Range. The fireplace with a ring in the middle, from which is suspended the pot, is repre- sented in a French sculpture of the end of the fourteenth century, where two women are seated on either side, engaged in conversation. One holds a ladle, and the other an imple- ment which may be meant for a pair of bel- lows. In his treatise on Kitchen Utensils, Neckam commences with naming a table, on which the cook may cut up green stuff of various sorts, as onions, peas, beans, lentils, 214 The Kitchen. and pulse ; and he proceeds to enumerate the tools and implements which are required to carry on the work : pots, tripods for the kettle, trenchers, pestles, mortars, hatchets, hooks, saucepans, cauldrons, pails, gridirons, knives, and so on. The head-cook was to have a little apartment, where he could prepare condiments and dressings ; and a sink was to be provided for the viscera and other offal of poultry. Fish was cooked in salt water or diluted wine.