brought to us by the dwellers under a higher
temperature, and was not really demanded in
such a climate as that of England, where
meat can be kept sweet in ordinary seasons
much longer even than in France or in Italy.
But let us bear in mind, too, how different
from our own the old English cuisine was,
and how many strange beasts calling for
lubricants it comprehended within its range.
An edifying insight into the old Scottish
cuisine among people of the better sort is
afforded by Fynes Morison, in his description
of a stay at a knight’s house in North Britain
in 1598.
“ Myself,” he says, “ was at a knight’s house,
who had many servants to attend him, that
brought in his meat with their heads covered
with blue caps, the table being more than
half furnished with great platters of porridge,
each having a little piece of sodden meat ;
and when the tables were served, the ser-
vants did sit down with us ; but the upper
mess, instead of porridge, had a pullet with
some prunes in the broth. And I observed
no art of cookery, or furniture of household
32
The Early Englishman
stuff, but rather rude neglect of both, though
myself and my companion, sent by the Gov-
ernor of Berwick upon bordering affairs, were
entertained in the best manner. The Scots
. . . vulgarly eat hearth-cakes of oats, but in
cities have also wheaten bread, which, for
the most part, was bought by courtiers, gen-
tlemen, and the best sort of citizens. When
I lived at Berwick, the Scots weekly upon
the market day obtained leave in writing of
the governor to buy peas and beans, whereof,
as also of wheat, their merchants to this day
(1617) send great quantities from London
into Scotland. They drink pure wine, not
with sugar, as the English, yet at feasts they
put comfits in the wine, after the French
manner : but they had not our vintners7 fraud
to mix their wines.”
He proceeds to say that he noticed no
regular inns, with signs hanging out, but that
private householders would entertain passen-
gers on entreaty, or where acquaintance was
claimed. The last statement is interestingly
•corroborated by the account which Taylor the
Water-Poet printed in 1618 of his journey to
and his Food.
33
Scotland, and which he termed his “ Penniless
Pilgrimage or Moneyless Perambulation,”
in the course of which he purports to have
depended entirely on private hospitality.
A friend says : “The Scotch were long very
poor. Only their fish, oatmeal, and whiskey
kept them alive. Fish was very cheap.”
This remark sounds the key-note of a great
English want — cheaper fish. Of meat we
already eat enough, or too much ; but of fish
we might eat more, if it could be brought at
a low price to our doors. It is a noteworthy
collateral fadt that in the Lord Mayor of
London's Pageant of 1590 there is a repre-
sentation of the double advantage which
would accrue if the unemployed poor were
engaged to facilitate and cheapen the supply
of fish to the City ; and here we are, three
centuries forward, with the want still very
imperfectly answered.
Besides the bread and oatmeal above
named, the bannock played its part. “ The
Land o’ Cakes ” was more than a trim and
pretty phrase : there was in it a deep elo-
quence ; it marked a wide national demand
and supply.
D
34 The Early Englishman
Page 10
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
brought to us by the dwellers under a higher temperature, and was not really demanded in such a climate as that of England, where meat can be kept sweet in ordinary seasons much longer even than in France or in Italy. But let us bear in mind, too, how different from our own the old English cuisine was, and how many strange beasts calling for lubricants it comprehended within its range.
An edifying insight into the old Scottish cuisine among people of the better sort is afforded by Fynes Morison, in his description of a stay at a knight’s house in North Britain in 1598.
“ Myself,” he says, “ was at a knight’s house, who had many servants to attend him, that brought in his meat with their heads covered with blue caps, the table being more than half furnished with great platters of porridge, each having a little piece of sodden meat ; and when the tables were served, the servants did sit down with us ; but the upper mess, instead of porridge, had a pullet with some prunes in the broth. And I observed no art of cookery, or furniture of household
The Early Englishman
stuff, but rather rude neglect of both, though myself and my companion, sent by the Governor of Berwick upon bordering affairs, were entertained in the best manner. The Scots . . . vulgarly eat hearth-cakes of oats, but in cities have also wheaten bread, which, for the most part, was bought by courtiers, gentlemen, and the best sort of citizens. When I lived at Berwick, the Scots weekly upon the market day obtained leave in writing of the governor to buy peas and beans, whereof, as also of wheat, their merchants to this day (1617) send great quantities from London into Scotland. They drink pure wine, not with sugar, as the English, yet at feasts they put comfits in the wine, after the French manner : but they had not our vintners7 fraud to mix their wines.”
He proceeds to say that he noticed no regular inns, with signs hanging out, but that private householders would entertain passengers on entreaty, or where acquaintance was claimed. The last statement is interestingly •corroborated by the account which Taylor the Water-Poet printed in 1618 of his journey to
and his Food.
Scotland, and which he termed his “ Penniless Pilgrimage or Moneyless Perambulation,” in the course of which he purports to have depended entirely on private hospitality.
A friend says : “The Scotch were long very poor. Only their fish, oatmeal, and whiskey kept them alive. Fish was very cheap.” This remark sounds the key-note of a great English want — cheaper fish. Of meat we already eat enough, or too much ; but of fish we might eat more, if it could be brought at a low price to our doors. It is a noteworthy collateral fadt that in the Lord Mayor of London's Pageant of 1590 there is a representation of the double advantage which would accrue if the unemployed poor were engaged to facilitate and cheapen the supply of fish to the City ; and here we are, three centuries forward, with the want still very imperfectly answered.
Besides the bread and oatmeal above named, the bannock played its part. “ The Land o’ Cakes ” was more than a trim and pretty phrase : there was in it a deep eloquence ; it marked a wide national demand and supply.
D
34 The Early Englishman