The “ Penny Magazine” for 1842 has a good and suggestive paper on “ Feasts and Enter- tainments,” with extracts from some of the early dramatists and a woodcut of “a new French cook, to devise fine kickshaws and toys.” One curious point is brought out here in the phrase “ boiled jiggets of mutton,” which shews that the French gigot for a leg of mutton was formerly in use here. Like many other Gallicisms, it lingered in Scotland down to our own time. The cut of the French cook above men- tioned is a modern composition ; and indeed some of the excerpts from Ben Jonson and other writers are of an extravagant and hyper- bolical cast, — better calculated to amuse an audience than to instruct the student. Mr. Lucas remarks : “ It is probable that we are more dependent upon animal food than we used to be. In their early days, the pre- sent generation of dalesmen fed almost ex- clusively upon oatmeal ; either as ‘ hasty-pud- ding,’ — that is, Scotch oatmeal which had been ground over again , so as to be nearly as fine as flour ; .... or ‘ lumpy,’ — that is, boiled and his Food. 35 quickly and not thoroughly stirred; or else in one of the three kinds of cake which they call ‘ fermented/ viz., ‘ riddle cake/ ‘ held-on cake/ or ‘ turn-down cake/ which is made from oatcake batter poured on the ‘ bak’ ston’ ’ from the ladle, and then spread with the back of the ladle. It does not rise like an oatcake. Or of a fourth kind called ‘ clap cake.’ They also made ‘ tiffany cakes 5 of wheaten flour, which was separated from the bran by being worked through a hair-sieve tiffany , or temse : — south of England Tammy , — with a brush called the Brush shank ” D 2 ROYAL FEASTS AND SAVAGE POMP. IN Rose’s “School of Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth,” 1682, the staff of a great French establishment is de- scribed as a Master of the Household, a Master Carver, a Master Butler, a Master Confectioner, a Master Cook, and a Master Pastryman. The author, who was himself one of the cooks in our royal kitchen, tells Sir Stephen Fox, to whom he dedicates his book, that he had entered on it after he had completed one of a very different nature : “ The Theatre of the World, or a Prospect of Human Misery.” Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp. 37 At the time that the “ School of Instruc- tions ” was written, the French and ourselves had both progressed very greatly in the Art of Cookery and in the development of the menu. DelaHay Street, Westminster, near Bird-Cage Walk, suggests a time when a hedge ran along the western side of it to- wards the Park, in lieu of brick or stone walls ; but the fact is that we have here a curious association with the office, just quoted from Rose, of Master Confectioner. For of the plot of ground on which the street, or at any rate a portion of it stands, the old proprieter was Peter DelaHaye, master confectioner of Charles II. at the very period of the publica- tion of Rose’s book. His name occurs in the title-deeds of one of the houses on the Park side, which since his day has had only five owners, and has been, since 1840, the freehold of an old and valued friend of the present writer. It may be worth pointing out, that the Confectionery and Pastry were two distinct departments, each with its superintendent and staff. The fondness for confections had 3 8 Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The “ Penny Magazine” for 1842 has a good and suggestive paper on “ Feasts and Entertainments,” with extracts from some of the early dramatists and a woodcut of “a new French cook, to devise fine kickshaws and toys.” One curious point is brought out here in the phrase “ boiled jiggets of mutton,” which shews that the French gigot for a leg of mutton was formerly in use here. Like many other Gallicisms, it lingered in Scotland down to our own time. The cut of the French cook above mentioned is a modern composition ; and indeed some of the excerpts from Ben Jonson and other writers are of an extravagant and hyperbolical cast, — better calculated to amuse an audience than to instruct the student. Mr. Lucas remarks : “ It is probable that we are more dependent upon animal food than we used to be. In their early days, the present generation of dalesmen fed almost exclusively upon oatmeal ; either as ‘ hasty-pudding,’ — that is, Scotch oatmeal which had been ground over again , so as to be nearly as fine as flour ; .... or ‘ lumpy,’ — that is, boiled and his Food. quickly and not thoroughly stirred; or else in one of the three kinds of cake which they call ‘ fermented/ viz., ‘ riddle cake/ ‘ held-on cake/ or ‘ turn-down cake/ which is made from oatcake batter poured on the ‘ bak’ ston’ ’ from the ladle, and then spread with the back of the ladle. It does not rise like an oatcake. Or of a fourth kind called ‘ clap cake.’ They also made ‘ tiffany cakes 5 of wheaten flour, which was separated from the bran by being worked through a hair-sieve tiffany, or temse:—south of England Tammy,—with a brush called the Brush shank" D 2 ROYAL FEASTS AND SAVAGE POMP. IN Rose’s “School of Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth,” 1682, the staff of a great French establishment is described as a Master of the Household, a Master Carver, a Master Butler, a Master Confectioner, a Master Cook, and a Master Pastryman. The author, who was himself one of the cooks in our royal kitchen, tells Sir Stephen Fox, to whom he dedicates his book, that he had entered on it after he had completed one of a very different nature : “ The Theatre of the World, or a Prospect of Human Misery.” Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp. 37 At the time that the “ School of Instructions ” was written, the French and ourselves had both progressed very greatly in the Art of Cookery and in the development of the menu. DelaHay Street, Westminster, near Bird-Cage Walk, suggests a time when a hedge ran along the western side of it towards the Park, in lieu of brick or stone walls ; but the fact is that we have here a curious association with the office, just quoted from Rose, of Master Confectioner. For of the plot of ground on which the street, or at any rate a portion of it stands, the old proprieter was Peter DelaHaye, master confectioner of Charles II. at the very period of the publication of Rose’s book. His name occurs in the title-deeds of one of the houses on the Park side, which since his day has had only five owners, and has been, since 1840, the freehold of an old and valued friend of the present writer. It may be worth pointing out, that the Confectionery and Pastry were two distinct departments, each with its superintendent and staff. The fondness for confections had 3 8 Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp.

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine