There is no pictorial record of the mode in which the early baker worked here, analogous to that which Lacroix supplies of his sixteenth century confr'tre. The latter is brought vividly enough before us in a copy of one of Jost Amman’s engravings, and we perceive the bakery and its tenants : one (apparently a female) kneading the dough in a trough at the farther end, a second by a roasting fire, with a long ladle or peel in his hand, putting the loaf on the oven, and a third, who is a woman, leaving the place with two baskets of bread, one on her head and one on her arm ; the baker himself is almost naked, like the oper- atives in a modern iron furnace. The artist 193 Meats and Drinks. has skilfully realised the oppressive and enervating atmosphere ; and it was till lately quite usual to see in the side streets of Paris in the early morning the boulanger at work precisely in the same informal costume. So tenacious is usage, and so unchanging many of the conditions of life. The Anglo-Norman used butter where his Italian contemporary used oil. But it is doubtful whether before the Conquest our an- cestors were commonly acquainted with butter. The early cook understood the art of glazing with yolk of egg, and termed it endoring, and not less well that of pre- senting dishes under names calculated to mislead the intended partaker, as where we find a receipt given for pome de oringe, which turns out to be a preparation of liver of pork with herbs and condiments, served up in the form of glazed force-meat balls. Venison was salted in troughs. In the tale of “ The King and the Hermit,” the latter ex- hibits to his unknown visitor his stock of preserved venison from the deer, which he had shot in the forest. Meats and Drinks. 199 The mushroom, of which so many varieties are at present recognised by botanists, seems, from the testimony of an Italian, Giacomo Castelvetri, who was in London in 1614, and to whom I have already referred, to have been scarcely known here at that time. I cannot say, of course, how far Castelvetri may have prose- cuted his inquiries, though he certainly leaves the impression of having been intelligently ob- servant; or whether he includes in this observa- tion the edible toadstools; but even now much unreasonable prejudice exists as to the latter, and very limited use is made of any but two or three familiar sorts of the mush- room itself. It is a pity that this misconcep- tion should not be dissipated. Caviary had been brought into England, probably from Russia, at the commencement of the seventeenth century, perhaps sooner. In 1618, “The Court and Country,” by Breton, seems to represent it as an article of diet which was little known, and not much relished; for a great lady had sent the writer’s father a little barrel of it, and it was no sooner opened thanitwas fastened down again, 200 Meats and Drinks. to be returned to the donor with a respectful message that her servant had black soap enough already. In the time of James I. the ancient bill of fare had been shorn of many of its coarser features, so far as fish was concerned ; and the author of “The Court and Country” tells a story to shew that porpoise-pie was a dish which not even a dog would eat. The times had indeed changed, since a King and a Cardinal-archbishop judged this warm-blooded sea-dweller a fit dish for the most select company.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

There is no pictorial record of the mode in which the early baker worked here, analogous to that which Lacroix supplies of his sixteenth century confr'tre. The latter is brought vividly enough before us in a copy of one of Jost Amman’s engravings, and we perceive the bakery and its tenants : one (apparently a female) kneading the dough in a trough at the farther end, a second by a roasting fire, with a long ladle or peel in his hand, putting the loaf on the oven, and a third, who is a woman, leaving the place with two baskets of bread, one on her head and one on her arm ; the baker himself is almost naked, like the operatives in a modern iron furnace. The artist Meats and Drinks. has skilfully realised the oppressive and enervating atmosphere ; and it was till lately quite usual to see in the side streets of Paris in the early morning the boulanger at work precisely in the same informal costume. So tenacious is usage, and so unchanging many of the conditions of life. The Anglo-Norman used butter where his Italian contemporary used oil. But it is doubtful whether before the Conquest our ancestors were commonly acquainted with butter. The early cook understood the art of glazing with yolk of egg, and termed it endoring, and not less well that of presenting dishes under names calculated to mislead the intended partaker, as where we find a receipt given for pome de oringe, which turns out to be a preparation of liver of pork with herbs and condiments, served up in the form of glazed force-meat balls. Venison was salted in troughs. In the tale of “ The King and the Hermit,” the latter exhibits to his unknown visitor his stock of preserved venison from the deer, which he had shot in the forest. Meats and Drinks. The mushroom, of which so many varieties are at present recognised by botanists, seems, from the testimony of an Italian, Giacomo Castelvetri, who was in London in 1614, and to whom I have already referred, to have been scarcely known here at that time. I cannot say, of course, how far Castelvetri may have prosecuted his inquiries, though he certainly leaves the impression of having been intelligently observant; or whether he includes in this observation the edible toadstools; but even now much unreasonable prejudice exists as to the latter, and very limited use is made of any but two or three familiar sorts of the mushroom itself. It is a pity that this misconception should not be dissipated. Caviary had been brought into England, probably from Russia, at the commencement of the seventeenth century, perhaps sooner. In 1618, “The Court and Country,” by Breton, seems to represent it as an article of diet which was little known, and not much relished; for a great lady had sent the writer’s father a little barrel of it, and it was no sooner opened than it was fastened down again, Meats and Drinks. to be returned to the donor with a respectful message that her servant had black soap enough already. In the time of James I. the ancient bill of fare had been shorn of many of its coarser features, so far as fish was concerned ; and the author of “The Court and Country” tells a story to shew that porpoise-pie was a dish which not even a dog would eat. The times had indeed changed, since a King and a Cardinal-archbishop judged this warm-blooded sea-dweller a fit dish for the most select company.

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine