Rundell’s cookery book, according to the
preface, was originally intended for the
private instruction of the daughters of
the authoress in their married homes, and
specially prepared with an eye to house-
keepers of moderate incomes. Mrs. Run-
dell did not write for professed cooks, or with
any idea of emolument; and she declared
that had such a work existed when she first
set out in life it would have been a great
treasure to her. The public shared the
writer’s estimate of her labours, and called
for a succession of impressions of the “New
System,” till its run was checked by Miss
Acton’s still more practical collection. Mrs.
Rundell is little consulted nowadays ; but
time was when Mrs. Glasse and herself were
the twin stars of the culinary empyrean.
Coming down to our own times, the names
most familiar to our ears are Ude, Franca-
telli, and Soyer, and they are the names of
foreigners.* No English school of cookery
* A fourth work before me has no clue to the author, but it
is like the others, of an alien complexion. It is called “ French
Domestic Cookery, Combining Elegance and Economy. In
Cookery Books. 163
can be said ever to have existed in England.
We have, and have always had, ample material
for making excellent dishes ; but if we desire to
turn it to proper account, we have to summon
men from a distance to our aid, or to accept
the probable alternative — failure. The adage,
“ God sends meat, and the devil sends
cooks,” must surely be of native parentage,
for of no country is it so true as of our own.
Perhaps, had it not been for the influx
among us of French and Italian experts,
commencing with our Anglo-Gallic relations
under the Plantagenets, and the palmy days
of the monastic orders, culinary science
would not have arrived at the height of
development which it has attained in the
face of great obstacles. Perchance we should
not have progressed much beyond the pan-
cake and oatmeal period. But foreign chefs
limit their efforts to those who can afford
twelve Hundred Receipts, nmo, 1846.” Soyer's book ap-
peared in the same year. In 1820, an anonymous writer printed
a Latin poem of his own composition, called “ Tabella Cibaria,
a Bill of Fare, etc., etc., with Copious Notes, ” which seem more
important than the text.
M 2
1 64
Cookery Books.
to pay them for their services. The middle
classes do not fall within the pale of their
beneficence. The poor know them not. So
it happens that even as I write, the greater
part of the community not only cannot afford
professional assistance in the preparation of
their meals, which goes without saying, but
from ignorance expend on their larder twice as
much as a Parisian or an Italian in the same
rank of life, with a very indifferent result.
There are handbooks of instruction, it is true,
both for the middle and for the lower classes.
These books are at everybody’s command.
But they are either left unread, or if read, they
are not understood. I have before me the
eleventh edition of Esther Copley’s “ Cottage
Comforts,” 1834; it embraces all the points
which demand attention from such as desire
to render a humble home comfortable and
happy. The leaves have never been opened.
I will not say, ex hoc disce omnes ; but it
really appears to be the case, that these
works are not studied by those for whom
they are written — not studied, at all events,
to advantage.
Cookery Books. 165
Page 52
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Rundell’s cookery book, according to the preface, was originally intended for the private instruction of the daughters of the authoress in their married homes, and specially prepared with an eye to housekeepers of moderate incomes. Mrs. Rundell did not write for professed cooks, or with any idea of emolument; and she declared that had such a work existed when she first set out in life it would have been a great treasure to her. The public shared the writer’s estimate of her labours, and called for a succession of impressions of the “New System,” till its run was checked by Miss Acton’s still more practical collection. Mrs. Rundell is little consulted nowadays ; but time was when Mrs. Glasse and herself were the twin stars of the culinary empyrean.
Coming down to our own times, the names most familiar to our ears are Ude, Francatelli, and Soyer, and they are the names of foreigners.* No English school of cookery
* A fourth work before me has no clue to the author, but it is like the others, of an alien complexion. It is called “ French Domestic Cookery, Combining Elegance and Economy. In
Cookery Books. 163
can be said ever to have existed in England. We have, and have always had, ample material for making excellent dishes ; but if we desire to turn it to proper account, we have to summon men from a distance to our aid, or to accept the probable alternative — failure. The adage, “ God sends meat, and the devil sends cooks,” must surely be of native parentage, for of no country is it so true as of our own. Perhaps, had it not been for the influx among us of French and Italian experts, commencing with our Anglo-Gallic relations under the Plantagenets, and the palmy days of the monastic orders, culinary science would not have arrived at the height of development which it has attained in the face of great obstacles. Perchance we should not have progressed much beyond the pancake and oatmeal period. But foreign chefs limit their efforts to those who can afford
twelve Hundred Receipts, nmo, 1846.” Soyer's book appeared in the same year. In 1820, an anonymous writer printed a Latin poem of his own composition, called “ Tabella Cibaria, a Bill of Fare, etc., etc., with Copious Notes, ” which seem more important than the text.
M 2
1 64
Cookery Books.
to pay them for their services. The middle classes do not fall within the pale of their beneficence. The poor know them not. So it happens that even as I write, the greater part of the community not only cannot afford professional assistance in the preparation of their meals, which goes without saying, but from ignorance expend on their larder twice as much as a Parisian or an Italian in the same rank of life, with a very indifferent result. There are handbooks of instruction, it is true, both for the middle and for the lower classes. These books are at everybody’s command. But they are either left unread, or if read, they are not understood. I have before me the eleventh edition of Esther Copley’s “ Cottage Comforts,” 1834; it embraces all the points which demand attention from such as desire to render a humble home comfortable and happy. The leaves have never been opened. I will not say, ex hoc disce omnes ; but it really appears to be the case, that these works are not studied by those for whom they are written — not studied, at all events, to advantage.
Cookery Books. 165