Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

pepper, salt, cloves, and mace; wash over your collops with a bunch of feathers dipped in eggs, and have in readiness a good handfull of sweet-herbs shred small; the herbs must be thyme, parsley, and spinage; and the yolks of eight hard eggs, minced, and a few oysters parboiled and chopt ; some beefsuet shred very fine. Mix these together, and strew them over your collops, and sprinkle a little orange-flower-water on them, and roll the collops up very close, and lay them in your pye, strewing the seasoning that is left over them ; put butter on the top, and close up your pye ; when ’tis drawn, put in gravy, and one anchovy dissolved in it, and pour it in very hot : and you may put in artichokebottoms and chesnuts, if you please, or sliced lemon, or grapes scalded, or what else is in season ; but if you will make it a right savoury pye leave them out. To make a Lumber Pye: — Take a pound and a half of veal, parboil it, and when ’tis cold chop it very small, with two pound of beefsuet, and some candied orange-peel; some sweet-herbs, as thyme, sweet-marjoram, and Early Receipts 1 1 1 an handful of spinage ; mince the herbs small before you put them to the other . so chop all together, and a pippin or two ; then add a handful or two of grated bread, a pound and a half of currants, washed and dried ; some cloves, mace, nutmeg, a little salt, sugar and sack, and put to all these as many yolks of raw eggs, and whites of two, as will make it a moist forc’d-meat ; work it with your hands into a body, and make it into balls as big as a turkey’s egg ; then having your coffin made put in your balls. Take the marrow out of three or four bones as whole as you can : let your marrow lie a little in water, to take out the blood and splinters ; then dry it, and dip it in yolk of eggs ; season it with a little salt, nutmeg grated, and grated bread ; lay it on and between your forc’d-meat balls, and over that sliced citron, candied orange and lemon, eryngo-roots, preserved barberries ; then lay on sliced lemon, and thin slices of butter over all ; then lid your pye, and bake it ; and when ’tis drawn, have in readiness a caudle made of white-wine and sugar, and thicken’d with butter and eggs, and pour it hot into your pye. 1 1 2 Early Receipts. Very fine Hogs Puddings: — Shred four pounds of beef-suet very fine, mix with it two pounds of fine sugar powder’d, two grated nutmegs, some mace beat, and a little salt, and three pounds of currants wash’d and pick’d ; beat twenty-four yolks, twelve whites of eggs, with a little sack ; mix all well together, and fill your guts, being clean and steep’d in orange-flower-water ; cut your guts quarter and half long, fill them half full ; tye at each end, and again thus oooo. Boil them as others, and cut them in balls when sent to the table. To make Plumb-Porridge : — Take a leg and shin of beef to ten gallons of water, boil it very tender, and when the broth is strong, strain it out, wipe the pot, and put in the broth again ; slice six penny-loaves thin, cutting off the top and bottom ; put some of the liquor to it, cover it up, and let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then put it in your pot, let it boil a quarter of an hour, then put in five pounds of currants, let them boil a little, and put in five pounds of raisins, and two pounds of prunes, and let them boil Early Receipts. 1 1 3