ol proposal ; he did not, so far as we know,
ever draw out a title-page, as Coleridge was
fond of doing ; and perhaps the loss is to be
bome with. The Doctor would have pitched
his discourse in too high a key.
Among the gastronomical enlargements of
our literature in the latter half of the last
century, one of the best books in point of
classification and range is that by B. Cler-
mont, of which the third edition made its
appearance in 1776, the first having been
anonymous. Clermont states that he had
been clerk of the kitchen in some of the
first families of the kingdom, and lately to
the Earl of Abingdon. But elsewhere we
find that he had lived very recently in the esta-
blishment of the Earl of Ashburnham, for he
observes in the preface : “ I beg the can-
dour of the Public will excuse the incorrect-
ness of the Language and Diction. My
situation in life as an actual servant to
the Earl of Ashburnham at the time of the
first publication of this Book will I trust
plead my Apology.” He informs his readers
on the title-page, and repeats in the preface,
160 Cookery Books
that a material part of the work consists of
a translation of “ Les Soupers de la Cour/'
and he proceeds to say, that he does not
pretend to make any further apology for the
title of supper , than that the French were,
in general, more elegant in their suppers
than their dinners. In other words, the late
dinner was still called supper.
The writer had procured the French treatise
from Paris for his own use, and had found it
of much service to him in his capacity as
clerk of the kitchen, and he had conse-
quently translated it, under the persuasion
that it would prove an assistance to gentle-
men, ladies, and others interested in such
matters. He specifies three antecedent pub-
lications in France, of which his pages might
be considered the essence, viz., “ La Cuisine
Royale,” “Le Maitre d’Hotel Cuisinier,” and
“Les Dons de Comus”; and he expresses
to some of his contemporaries, who had
helped him in his researches, his obligations
in the following terms : — “ As every country
produces many Articles peculiar to itself, and
considering the Difference of Climates, which
Cookery Books. 161
either forward or retard them, I would not
rely on my own Knowledge, in regard to such
Articles ; I applied therefore to three Trades-
men, all eminent in their Profession, one
for Fish, one for Poultry, and one for the
productions of the Garden, viz., Mr. Humphrey
Turner, the Manager in St. James’s Market ;
Mr. Andrews, Poulterer in ditto ; and Mr.
Adam Lawson, many years chief gardener to
the Earl of Ashburnham ; in this article I
was also assisted by Mr. Rice, Green-Grocer,
in St. Albans Street.” Clermont dates his
remarks from Princes Street, Cavendish
Square.
While Mrs. Glasse was still in the middle
firmament of public favour, a little book
without the writer’s name was published as
by “ A Lady.” I have not seen the first or
second editions ; but the third appeared in
1808. It is called “A New System of
Domestic Cookery, Formed upon Principles
of Economy, and Adapted to the use of
Private Families.” The author was Helene
Rundell, of whom I am unable to supply
any further particulars at present. Mrs.
M
1 62
Cookery Books.
Page 51
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
ol proposal ; he did not, so far as we know, ever draw out a title-page, as Coleridge was fond of doing ; and perhaps the loss is to be bome with. The Doctor would have pitched his discourse in too high a key.
Among the gastronomical enlargements of our literature in the latter half of the last century, one of the best books in point of classification and range is that by B. Clermont, of which the third edition made its appearance in 1776, the first having been anonymous. Clermont states that he had been clerk of the kitchen in some of the first families of the kingdom, and lately to the Earl of Abingdon. But elsewhere we find that he had lived very recently in the establishment of the Earl of Ashburnham, for he observes in the preface : “ I beg the candour of the Public will excuse the incorrectness of the Language and Diction. My situation in life as an actual servant to the Earl of Ashburnham at the time of the first publication of this Book will I trust plead my Apology.” He informs his readers on the title-page, and repeats in the preface,
160 Cookery Books
that a material part of the work consists of a translation of “ Les Soupers de la Cour/' and he proceeds to say, that he does not pretend to make any further apology for the title of supper , than that the French were, in general, more elegant in their suppers than their dinners. In other words, the late dinner was still called supper.
The writer had procured the French treatise from Paris for his own use, and had found it of much service to him in his capacity as clerk of the kitchen, and he had consequently translated it, under the persuasion that it would prove an assistance to gentlemen, ladies, and others interested in such matters. He specifies three antecedent publications in France, of which his pages might be considered the essence, viz., “ La Cuisine Royale,” “Le Maitre d’Hotel Cuisinier,” and “Les Dons de Comus”; and he expresses to some of his contemporaries, who had helped him in his researches, his obligations in the following terms : — “ As every country produces many Articles peculiar to itself, and considering the Difference of Climates, which
Cookery Books. 161
either forward or retard them, I would not rely on my own Knowledge, in regard to such Articles ; I applied therefore to three Tradesmen, all eminent in their Profession, one for Fish, one for Poultry, and one for the productions of the Garden, viz., Mr. Humphrey Turner, the Manager in St. James’s Market ; Mr. Andrews, Poulterer in ditto ; and Mr. Adam Lawson, many years chief gardener to the Earl of Ashburnham ; in this article I was also assisted by Mr. Rice, Green-Grocer, in St. Albans Street.” Clermont dates his remarks from Princes Street, Cavendish Square.
While Mrs. Glasse was still in the middle firmament of public favour, a little book without the writer’s name was published as by “ A Lady.” I have not seen the first or second editions ; but the third appeared in 1808. It is called “A New System of Domestic Cookery, Formed upon Principles of Economy, and Adapted to the use of Private Families.” The author was Helene Rundell, of whom I am unable to supply any further particulars at present. Mrs.
M
1 62
Cookery Books.