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The Book- Lover’s Library
Edited by
Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A.
OLD COOKERY BOOKS
AND
ANCIENT CUISINE
BY
VV. CAREW HAZLITT
POPULAR EDITION
LONDON
ELLIOT STOCK, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW
1902
Cl)
jFXN, S
THE BOOK-LOVER’S LIBRARY
was first published in the following
styles :
No 1. — Printed on antique paper , in
cloth bevelled with rough edges, price
As. 6d.
No. 2. — Printed on hand-made paper,
in Roxburgh, half morocco, zvith gilt
top : 250 only are printed, for sale in
England, price 7s. Gd.
A'o. 3 — Large paper edition, on hand-
made paper, of which 50 copies only are
printed, and bound in Roxburgh, for
sale in England, price £1 Is.
There are a few sets left, and can be
had on application to the Publisher.
[
\<
HISTORICAL
MEDICAL
/BHh
INTRODUCTORY
MAN has been distinguished from other
animals in various ways ; but perhaps
there is no particular in which he exhibits so
marked a difference from the rest of creation
— not even in the prehensile faculty resident
in his hand — as in the objection to raw food,
meat, and vegetables. He approximates to
his inferior contemporaries only in the matter
of fruit, salads, and oysters, not to mention
wild-duck. He entertains no sympathy with
the cannibal, who judges the flavour of his
enemy improved by temporary commitment
to a subterranean larder ; yet, to be sure, he
B
2
Introductory.
keeps his grouse and his venison till it
approaches the condition of spoon-meat.
It naturally ensues, from the absence or
scantiness of explicit or systematic informa-
tion connected with the opening stages of
such inquiries as the present, that the student
is compelled to draw his own inferences
from indirect or unwitting allusion; but so
long as conjecture and hypothesis are not
too freely indulged, this class of evidence is,
as a rule, tolerably trustworthy, and is, more-
over, open to verification.
When we pass from an examination of the
state of the question as regarded Cookery in
very early times among us, before an even
more valuable art — that of Printing — was
discovered, we shall find ourselves face to
face with a rich and long chronological series
of books on the Mystery, the titles and fore-
fronts of which are often not without a kind
of fragrance and gout.
As the space allotted to me is limited, and
as the sketch left by Warner of the convivial
habits and household arrangements of the
Saxons or Normans in this island, as well as of
Introductory.
3
the monastic institutions, is more copious than
any which I could offer, it may be best to refer
simply to his elaborate preface. But it may
be pointed out generally that the establish-
ment of the Norman sway not only purged
of some of their Anglo-Danish barbarism
the tables of the nobility and the higher
classes, but did much to spread among the
poor a thriftier manipulation of the articles of
food by a resort to broths, messes, and hot-
pots. In the poorer districts, in Normandy
as well as in Brittany, Duke William would
probably find very little alteration in the
mode of preparing victuals from that which
was in use in his day, eight hundred years
ago, if (like another Arthur) he should return
among his ancient compatriots ; but in his
adopted country he would see that there had
been a considerable revolt from the common
saucepan — not to add from the pseudo-
Arthurian bag-pudding ; and that the English
artisan, if he
Page 0
Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The Book- Lover’s Library
Edited by
Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A.
AND
ANCIENT CUISINE
BY
VV. CAREW HAZLITT
POPULAR EDITION
LONDON
ELLIOT STOCK, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW
THE BOOK-LOVER’S LIBRARY
was first published in the following styles :
No. 1. — Printed on antique paper, in cloth bevelled with rough edges, price 4s. 6d.
No. 2. — Printed on hand-made paper, in Roxburgh, half morocco, with gilt top : 250 only are printed, for sale in England, price 7s. Gd.
No. 3 — Large paper edition, on handmade paper, of which 50 copies only are printed, and bound in Roxburgh, for sale in England, price £1 Is.
There are a few sets left, and can be had on application to the Publisher.
HISTORICAL
MEDICAL
INTRODUCTORY
MAN has been distinguished from other animals in various ways ; but perhaps there is no particular in which he exhibits so marked a difference from the rest of creation — not even in the prehensile faculty resident in his hand — as in the objection to raw food, meat, and vegetables. He approximates to his inferior contemporaries only in the matter of fruit, salads, and oysters, not to mention wild-duck. He entertains no sympathy with the cannibal, who judges the flavour of his enemy improved by temporary commitment to a subterranean larder ; yet, to be sure, he
B
Introductory.
keeps his grouse and his venison till it approaches the condition of spoon-meat.
It naturally ensues, from the absence or scantiness of explicit or systematic information connected with the opening stages of such inquiries as the present, that the student is compelled to draw his own inferences from indirect or unwitting allusion; but so long as conjecture and hypothesis are not too freely indulged, this class of evidence is, as a rule, tolerably trustworthy, and is, moreover, open to verification.
When we pass from an examination of the state of the question as regarded Cookery in very early times among us, before an even more valuable art — that of Printing — was discovered, we shall find ourselves face to face with a rich and long chronological series of books on the Mystery, the titles and forefronts of which are often not without a kind of fragrance and gout.
As the space allotted to me is limited, and as the sketch left by Warner of the convivial habits and household arrangements of the Saxons or Normans in this island, as well as of
Introductory.
the monastic institutions, is more copious than any which I could offer, it may be best to refer simply to his elaborate preface. But it may be pointed out generally that the establishment of the Norman sway not only purged of some of their Anglo-Danish barbarism the tables of the nobility and the higher classes, but did much to spread among the poor a thriftier manipulation of the articles of food by a resort to broths, messes, and hotpots. In the poorer districts, in Normandy as well as in Brittany, Duke William would probably find very little alteration in the mode of preparing victuals from that which was in use in his day, eight hundred years ago, if (like another Arthur) he should return among his ancient compatriots ; but in his adopted country he would see that there had been a considerable revolt from the common saucepan — not to add from the pseudo- Arthurian bag-pudding ; and that the English artisan, if he