FoodNet

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

1886

Page 15

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
twice in a lifetime, and when the guests below the salt had seen the ways of greatness, they departed to fulfil their several callings. These were political demonstrations with a clear and (for the age) not irrational object ; but for the modern public dinner, over which I should be happy to preach the funeral sermon, there is not often this or any other plea. The redistribution of wealth and its diver- sion into more fruitful channels has already done something for the people ; and in the future that lies before some of us they will do vastly more. All Augaea will be flushed out. In some of these superb feasts, such as that at the marriage of Henry IV. in 1403, there were two series of courses, three of meat, and three of fish and sweets ; in which we see our present fashion to a certain extent reversed. But at the coronation of Henry V. in 1421, only three courses were served, and those mixed. The taste for what were termed “ subtleties,” had come in, and among the dishes at this latter entertainment occur, 48 Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp. “A pelican sitting on her nest with her young,” and “an image of St. Catherine holding a book and disputing with the doc- tors.” These vagaries became so common, that few dinners of importance were ac- counted complete without one or more. One of the minor “ subtleties ” was a peacock in full panoply. The bird was first skinned, and the feathers, tail, head and neck having been laid on a table, and sprinkled with cummin, the body was roasted, glazed with raw egg-yolk, and after being left to cool, was sewn back again into the skin and so brought to table as the last course. In 1466, at the enthronement of Archbishop Nevile, no fewer than 104 peacocks were dressed. The most extraordinary display of fish at table on a single occasion took place at the enthronement feast of Archbishop Warham in 1504 ; it occurred on a fast day ; and conse- quently no meat, poultry or game was in- cluded in the menu, but ample compensation was found in the lavish assortment of confec- tionery, spices, beer and wine. Of wine of Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp. 49 various vintages there were upwards of 12 pipes, and of ale and beer, thirty tuns, in- cluding four of London and six of Kentish ale. The narratives which have descended to us of the prodigious banquets given on special occasions by our early kings, prelates and nobles, are apt to inspire the general reader with an admiration of the splendid hospitality of bygone times. But, as I have already suggested, these festivities were occasional and at long intervals, and dur- ing the intervening space the great ones and the small ones of mediaeval and early England did not indulge in this riotous sort of living, but “ kept secret house,” as it was called, both after their own fashion. The extremes of prodigality and squalor were more strongly marked among the poorer classes while this country was in a semi- barbarous condition, and even the aristocracy by no means maintained the same domestic state throughout the year as their modern representatives. There are not those osten- tatious displays of wealth and generosity, E 50 Royal Feasts and Savage Pomp.