could get a rump-steak or a leg of mutton once a week, was content to starve on the other six days. Those who desire to be more amply in- 4 Introductory. formed of the domestic economy of the ancient court, and to study the mitmtice, into which I am precluded from entering, can easily gratify themselves in the pages of “ The Ordinances and Regulations for the Govern- ment of the Royal Household,” 1790; “The Northumberland Household Book ;” and the various printed volumes of “ Privy Purse Ex- penses ” of royal and great personages, includ- ing “ The Household Roll of Bishop Swan- field (1289-90).” The late Mr. Green, in his “ History of the English People” (1880-3, 4 v0^s- 8vo), does not seem to have concerned himself about the kitchens or gardens of the nation which he undertook to describe. Yet, what con- spicuous elements these have been in our social and domestic progress, and what civilising factors ! To a proper and accurate appreciation of the cookery of ancient times among ourselves, a knowledge of its condition in other more or less neighbouring countries, and of the surrounding influences and conditions which marked the dawn of the art in England, and Introductory. 5 its slow transition to a luxurious excess, would be in strictness necessary ; but I am tempted to refer the reader to an admirable series of papers which appeared on this subject in Parker’s “ Domestic Architecture,” and were collected in i86r, under the title of “ Our English Home : its Early History and Progress.” In this little volume the author, who does not give his name, has drawn together in a succinct compass the collateral information which wfill help to render the following pages more luminous and interesting. An essay might be written on the appointments of the table only, their introduction, development, and multiplica- tion. The history and antiquities of the Culinary Art among the Greeks are handled with his usual care and skill by M. J. A. St. John in his “ Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece,” 1842 ; and in the Biblia or Hebrew Scriptures we get an indirect insight into the method of cooking from the forms of sacrifice. The earliest legend which remains to us of Hellenic gastronomy is associated with canni. 6 Introductory. balism. It is the story of Pelops — an episode almost pre-Homeric, where a certain rudi- mentary knowledge of dressing flesh, and even of disguising its real nature, is implied in the tale, as it descends to us ; and the next in order of times is perhaps the familiar passage in the Odyssey , recounting the adven- tures of Odysseus and his companions in the cave of Polyphemus. Here, again, we are introduced to a rude society of cave-dwellers, who eat human flesh, if not as an habitual diet, yet not only without reluctance, but with relish and enjoyment. The Phagetica of Ennius, of which frag- ments remain, seems to be the most ancient treatise of the kind in Roman literature. It is supposed to relate an account of edible fishes ; but in a complete state the work may very well have amounted to a general Manual on the subject. In relation even to Homer, the Phagetica is comparatively mod- ern, following the Odyssey at a distance of some six centuries ; and in the interval it is extremely likely that anthropophagy had be- come rarer among the Greeks, and that if Introductory. 7

AI-modernized reading of the original text

could get a rump-steak or a leg of mutton once a week, was content to starve on the other six days. Those who desire to be more amply in- Introductory. formed of the domestic economy of the ancient court, and to study the minutiae, into which I am precluded from entering, can easily gratify themselves in the pages of “ The Ordinances and Regulations for the Government of the Royal Household,” 1790; “The Northumberland Household Book ;” and the various printed volumes of “ Privy Purse Expenses ” of royal and great personages, including “ The Household Roll of Bishop Swanfield (1289-90).” The late Mr. Green, in his “ History of the English People” (1880-3, 4 v0^s- 8vo), does not seem to have concerned himself about the kitchens or gardens of the nation which he undertook to describe. Yet, what conspicuous elements these have been in our social and domestic progress, and what civilising factors ! To a proper and accurate appreciation of the cookery of ancient times among ourselves, a knowledge of its condition in other more or less neighbouring countries, and of the surrounding influences and conditions which marked the dawn of the art in England, and Introductory. its slow transition to a luxurious excess, would be in strictness necessary ; but I am tempted to refer the reader to an admirable series of papers which appeared on this subject in Parker’s “ Domestic Architecture,” and were collected in i86r, under the title of “ Our English Home : its Early History and Progress.” In this little volume the author, who does not give his name, has drawn together in a succinct compass the collateral information which will help to render the following pages more luminous and interesting. An essay might be written on the appointments of the table only, their introduction, development, and multiplication. The history and antiquities of the Culinary Art among the Greeks are handled with his usual care and skill by M. J. A. St. John in his “ Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece,” 1842 ; and in the Biblia or Hebrew Scriptures we get an indirect insight into the method of cooking from the forms of sacrifice. The earliest legend which remains to us of Hellenic gastronomy is associated with cannibalism. Introductory. balism. It is the story of Pelops — an episode almost pre-Homeric, where a certain rudimentary knowledge of dressing flesh, and even of disguising its real nature, is implied in the tale, as it descends to us ; and the next in order of times is perhaps the familiar passage in the Odyssey , recounting the adventures of Odysseus and his companions in the cave of Polyphemus. Here, again, we are introduced to a rude society of cave-dwellers, who eat human flesh, if not as an habitual diet, yet not only without reluctance, but with relish and enjoyment. The Phagetica of Ennius, of which fragments remain, seems to be the most ancient treatise of the kind in Roman literature. It is supposed to relate an account of edible fishes ; but in a complete state the work may very well have amounted to a general Manual on the subject. In relation even to Homer, the Phagetica is comparatively modern, following the Odyssey at a distance of some six centuries ; and in the interval it is extremely likely that anthropophagy had become rarer among the Greeks, and that if Introductory.

Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine