Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

some fresh butter ; then put in three or four beef-steaks larded with bacon ; then cut some veal-steaks from the leg; hack them, and wash them over with the yolk of an egg, and afterwards lay it over with forc’d-meat, and roll it up, and lay it in with young chickens, pigeons and rabbets, some in quarters, some in halves ; sweet-breads, lamb-stones, cockscombs, palates after they are boiled, peeled, and cut in slices : tongues, either hogs or calves, sliced, and some larded with bacon : whole yolks of hard eggs, pistachia-nuts peeled, forced balls, some round, some like an olive, lemon sliced, some with the rind on, barberries and oysters : season all these with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, mix’d together after they are cut very small, and strew it on every thing as you put it in your pot : then put in a quart of gravy, and some butter on the top, and cover it close with a lid of puff-paste, pretty thick. Eight hours will bake it. To make Hams of Pork like Westphalia :■ — To two large hams, or three small ones, take three pounds of common salt, and two pounds Early Receipts. and half of brown coarse sugar ; mix both together, and rub it well into the hams, and let them lie seven days, turning them every day, and rub the salt in them, when you turn them ; then take four ounces of salt-petre beat small, and mix with two handfuls of common salt, and rub that well in your hams, and let them lie a fortnight longer : then hang them up high in a chimney to smoke. To make a Ragoo of Pigs-Ears : — Take a quantity of pigs-ears, and boil them in one half wine and the other water ; cut them in small pieces, then brown a little butter, and put them in, and a pretty deal of gravy, two anchovies, an eschalot or two, a little mustard, and some slices of lemon, some salt, and nutmeg ; stew all these together, and shake it up thick. Garnish the dish with barberries. To collar a Pig: — Cut off the head of your pig ; then cut the body asunder ; bone it, and cut two collars off each side ; then lay it in water to take out the blood ; then take sage and parsley, and shred them very small, and mix them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and strew some on every side, or collar, and roll i o 6 Early Receipts. it up, and tye it with coarse tape; so boil them in fair water and salt, till they are very tender : put two or three blades of mace in the kettle, and when they are enough, take them up, and lay them in something to cool ; strain out some of the liquor, and add to it some vinegar and salt, a little white-wine, and three or four bay-leaves ; give it a boil up, and when ’tis cold put it to the collars, and keep them for use. A Fricasy of Double Tripe: — Cut your tripe in slices, two inches long, and put it into a stew-pan ; put to it a quarter of a pound of capers, as much samphire shred, half a pint of strong broth, as much white-wine, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a lemon shred small ; stew all these together till ’tis tender ; then take it off the fire, and thicken up the liquor with the yolks of three or four eggs, a little parsley boiled green and chopp’d, some grated nutmeg and salt ; shake it well together. Serve it on sippets. Garnish with lemon. To pot a Swan: — Bone and skin your swan, and beat the flesh in a mortar, taking Early Receipts.