"With the exception of dishes of purely native origin, little or no instruction worth following was given to the Madras housewife, whilst there was much dangerous counsel prof- fered which should be most carefully avoided. The most reprehensible customs were, in point of fact, laid down over and over again as precepts. Concerning these, I will say nothing now, for I propose to devote a separate chapter to the important subject of the cook-room, and to expose the besetting sins of our native cooks whenever they occur to me. The book to which I refer has not, as far as I am aware, been followed here by any fresh work, and I think, I may say that at any rate its pages scarcely contained the sort of instruction we look for now-a-days. In taking upon myself, therefore, the task of humbly ministering to the reformed taste of the hour, I am encouraged by the reflec- tion that I am, so to speak, a breaker of fresh ground. INTRODUCTION. I propose to carry out mj scheme in a series of chapters commencing with, cook-room experiences, the judicious management of the cook, and some general remarks on the equipment of the store-room and kitchen ; then to take the salient features of a dinner one bj one, and when I have discussed soups, fish, entrees, &c., &c., to submit a number of menus, worked out in detail, adapted to our resources in this part of India. I know full well that to several accomplished disciples of Brillat Savarin at Madi^as, I can impart nothing new. On the contrary, it would better become me to sit at their feet and listen, than to rush in where they have hesitated to tread. To this talented coterie, I appeal for forbearance. I entreat them to be merciful inasmuch as they are very strong. I feel, indeed, that in their presence, I may truly say with Ramasamy, that I am " a yevj poor man, — I beg your pardon." No. I address my jottings to the many who yearn to follow reform, but who cannot discover the method of doing so ; who, — to quote the words of a very hospitable friend, — "like nice things better than nasty things," yet have hitherto failed to penetrate the secret of success ; and who view with daily sorrow the lamentable parody of dinner which it seems good to their cooks to place before them, I shall treat of cosy, sociable little dinners of from two to ten people, rather than of the elaborate banquets of the great ; and the main object before me will always be to study economy in conjunction with the system I advocate. "Wtvern. Madras, 1st November 1878. OKCi^ZRTEI^ I. The Menu. LL who have studied the reformed system of dinner- giving will, I think, agree with me when I say that the menu of a dinner anywhere, but in India espe- cially, should be reduced to the smallest compass possible. An hour at the outside should suffice for the discussion of the daintiest of bills of fare, so to ensure this, we should strike out of it all unnecessary encumbrances. Let the little card be clothed in the white garb of simplicity and completeness, and I am prepared to declare that all our lady guests, and amajoHty of the men we entertain, will rejoice at the result.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

"With the exception of dishes of purely native origin, little or no instruction worth following was given to the Madras housewife, whilst there was much dangerous counsel proffered which should be most carefully avoided. The most reprehensible customs were, in point of fact, laid down over and over again as precepts. Concerning these, I will say nothing now, for I propose to devote a separate chapter to the important subject of the cook-room, and to expose the besetting sins of our native cooks whenever they occur to me. The book to which I refer has not, as far as I am aware, been followed here by any fresh work, and I think, I may say that at any rate its pages scarcely contained the sort of instruction we look for now-a-days. In taking upon myself, therefore, the task of humbly ministering to the reformed taste of the hour, I am encouraged by the reflection that I am, so to speak, a breaker of fresh ground. INTRODUCTION. I propose to carry out mj scheme in a series of chapters commencing with, cook room experiences, the judicious management of the cook, and some general remarks on the equipment of the store-room and kitchen ; then to take the salient features of a dinner one bj one, and when I have discussed soups, fish, entrees, &c., &c., to submit a number of menus, worked out in detail, adapted to our resources in this part of India. I know full well that to several accomplished disciples of Brillat Savarin at Madi^as, I can impart nothing new. On the contrary, it would better become me to sit at their feet and listen, than to rush in where they have hesitated to tread. To this talented coterie, I appeal for forbearance. I entreat them to be merciful inasmuch as they are very strong. I feel, indeed, that in their presence, I may truly say with Ramasamy, that I am " a yevj poor man, — I beg your pardon." No. I address my jottings to the many who yearn to follow reform, but who cannot discover the method of doing so ; who, — to quote the words of a very hospitable friend, — "like nice things better than nasty things," yet have hitherto failed to penetrate the secret of success ; and who view with daily sorrow the lamentable parody of dinner which it seems good to their cooks to place before them, I shall treat of cosy, sociable little dinners of from two to ten people, rather than of the elaborate banquets of the great ; and the main object before me will always be to study economy in conjunction with the system I advocate. "Wtvern. Madras, 1st November 1878. OKCi^ZRTEI^ I. The Menu. LL who have studied the reformed system of dinnergiving will, I think, agree with me when I say that the menu of a dinner anywhere, but in India especially, should be reduced to the smallest compass possible. An hour at the outside should suffice for the discussion of the daintiest of bills of fare, so to ensure this, we should strike out of it all unnecessary encumbrances. Let the little card be clothed in the white garb of simplicity and completeness, and I am prepared to declare that all our lady guests, and amajoHty of the men we entertain, will rejoice at the result.

Culinary jottings