Introduction I. — The menu . II. — The cook and his management III. — Certain kitchen resuisites IV.— In the store-room V. — On stock, and clear soups VI. — Thick soups and purees VII. — Regarding our fish . VIII. — Hints about entrees . IX. — Entrees — concluded . X. — Sauces .... XI. — Sauces — continued XII. — Sauces — concluded . XIII. — Roasting and braising XIV. — Boiling and steaming XV. — Our vegetables XVI. — Vegetables — concluded XVII. — Rechauffes XVIII. — The savoury omelette XIX.— On luncheons . XX. — Fritters XXI. — Salads XXII. — HoRS d'ceuvres XXIII. — Savoury toasts XXIV.— Eggs, maccaroni, and cheese XXV. — Notes on the curing of meat XXVI. — Pastry-making, et cetera . XXVII. — A FEW nice PIES XXVIII.— Our curries XXIX. — CARRIES— continued, and mulligatunny XXX.— Camp cookery PAGE. I 4 12 17 24 30 43 52 60 69 78 87 94 102 114 126 140 168 177 185 195 203 212 222 234 251 258 272 285 298 314 NTRODUCTION. " The subject of Cookery is worthy of study, and one to which English people would do well to give their attention. If that man is a benefactor to his race who makes two blades of grass grow where only one did before, the art must be worth cultivating that enables a persoa to make one pound of meat go as far, by proper cooking, as two by neglect and inattention." — Dr. Lankester's " Good Food." 'T^T'^T^HILST reform slow, yet sure, has of late years VTr been creeping into our style of living in India, the want of a hand-book on culinary science — locally considered — of a more modern description than that time-honoured and, in its day, excellent work " Indian Domestic Cookery^' must have been long felt by the busy housewife of Madras. Our dinners of to-day would indeed astonish our Anglo- Indian forefathers. With a taste for light wines, and a far more moderate indulgence in stimulating di'inks, has been germinated a desire for delicate and artistic cookery. Quality has superseded quantity, and the molten curries and florid oriental compositions of the olden time — so fear- fully and wonderfully made — have been gradually banished from our dinner tables. For although a well-considered curry, or mulUgatunny, — capital things in their way, — are still very frequently given at breakfast or at luncheon, they no longer occupy a posi- 2 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. tion in the dinner menu of establisliments conducted accord- ing to the new regime. A little treatise on cookery, then, showing the reader how to accomplish successfully, with the average means at his disposal in this country, some of the many tasty dishes spoken of in the modern English and continental books upon the subject, will, I am sanguine enough to hope, be i-eceived with kindly toleration, if not lA-ith cordiality, by those who consider it worth while to be interested in matters culinary. Thirsting for some instruction of this kind, I remember buying, some few years ago, a little book which had just then been published at Madi-as, and which promised by its title to provide the thing needful. Alas ! how sorely dis- appointed was I with my purchase, for the work had assuredly been written for the Anglo-Indian in England rather than for the Englishman in India.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Introduction I. — The menu . II. — The cook and his management III. — Certain kitchen requisites IV.— In the store-room V. — On stock, and clear soups VI. — Thick soups and purees VII. — Regarding our fish . VIII. — Hints about entrees . IX. — Entrees — concluded . X. — Sauces .... XI. — Sauces — continued XII. — Sauces — concluded . XIII. — Roasting and braising XIV. — Boiling and steaming XV. — Our vegetables XVI. — Vegetables — concluded XVII. — Rechauffes XVIII. — The savoury omelette XIX.— On luncheons . XX. — Fritters XXI. — Salads XXII. — HoRS d'ceuvres XXIII. — Savoury toasts XXIV.— Eggs, maccaroni, and cheese XXV. — Notes on the curing of meat XXVI. — Pastry-making, et cetera . XXVII. — A FEW nice PIES XXVIII.— Our curries XXIX. — CARRIES— continued, and mulligatunny XXX.— Camp cookery NTRODUCTION. " The subject of Cookery is worthy of study, and one to which English people would do well to give their attention. If that man is a benefactor to his race who makes two blades of grass grow where only one did before, the art must be worth cultivating that enables a persoa to make one pound of meat go as far, by proper cooking, as two by neglect and inattention." — Dr. Lankester's " Good Food." 'T^T'^T^HILST reform slow, yet sure, has of late years VTr been creeping into our style of living in India, the want of a hand-book on culinary science — locally considered — of a more modern description than that time-honoured and, in its day, excellent work " Indian Domestic Cookery^' must have been long felt by the busy housewife of Madras. Our dinners of to-day would indeed astonish our Anglo- Indian forefathers. With a taste for light wines, and a far more moderate indulgence in stimulating di'inks, has been germinated a desire for delicate and artistic cookery. Quality has superseded quantity, and the molten curries and florid oriental compositions of the olden time — so fearfully and wonderfully made — have been gradually banished from our dinner tables. For although a well-considered curry, or mulUgatunny, — capital things in their way, — are still very frequently given at breakfast or at luncheon, they no longer occupy a posi- tion in the dinner menu of establisliments conducted according to the new regime. A little treatise on cookery, then, showing the reader how to accomplish successfully, with the average means at his disposal in this country, some of the many tasty dishes spoken of in the modern English and continental books upon the subject, will, I am sanguine enough to hope, be i-eceived with kindly toleration, if not lA-ith cordiality, by those who consider it worth while to be interested in matters culinary. Thirsting for some instruction of this kind, I remember buying, some few years ago, a little book which had just then been published at Madi-as, and which promised by its title to provide the thing needful. Alas ! how sorely disappointed was I with my purchase, for the work had assuredly been written for the Anglo-Indian in England rather than for the Englishman in India.

Culinary jottings