A cosy dinner to be perfect should be, it seems to me, a highly finished cabinet picture with every atom of detail carefully worked out, rather than a large pretentious canvas with an infinite amount of color expended in order to pro- duce a satisfactory impression. Every line of the little TYienu should, therefore, be written with a loving hand, and both lights and shadows should be considered, for our guests must e'en partake of each dish we offer them. Soup, fish, two well contrasted entrees served separately, one joint only, game, and a dressed vegetable, one entremets Sucre, an iced pudding, cheese with liors d' ceuvres and des- sert, will be found, if thoughtfully composed, ample fare THE MENU. for even the most hypercritical gourmet we can bid to our table. In the studied completeness of such a dinner as this will repose its chief attraction : — in good wine, no lack of ice, the brightest plate, snowy linen, well-toned light, and tasteful adornment of the table ; with all minutiae remembered — from des petits pains in the deftly-folded napkins, to the artistic salad which in all modern menus is not expressed yet, like salt, understood to be present. An extra joint may, of course, be given, but if the two entrees be really nice, and the game about to follow be the best in season, I fail to recognize the necessity of the addition. And, here, it may not be altogether unprofitable to con- sider attentively certain points connected with the modern banquet upon which opinions differ, and concerning which a good many people find a difficulty in coming to a satis- factory decision. The moot point or points to which I refer are associated with the general plan or arrangement of the menu, and in order to explain them, it will be necessary to trace their cause carefully. In the days of old, our forefathers divided their bills of fare into a number of courses. Thus, the soup and fish comprised the first course ; the entrees and joint the second ; and the game and sweets the third ; cheese and dessert being served independently. But of late years, we have simplified matters, and the modern menu, adapted to a great extent, of course, from that of France, is placed before us in two " services," as exemplified in the following table : — Potage ... Sonp. Premier service ... ^ ^''^'^^^^ - ^'^^• Entrees ... Side-dishes. ^Eelevds ... Joint, or remove. CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS. Clivts ... The roast (game or poultry). Second service J ^'^'^^'"^fs ... Savory and sweet dishes. I Fromage ... Cheese.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

A cosy dinner to be perfect should be, it seems to me, a highly finished cabinet picture with every atom of detail carefully worked out, rather than a large pretentious canvas with an infinite amount of color expended in order to produce a satisfactory impression. Every line of the little Menu should, therefore, be written with a loving hand, and both lights and shadows should be considered, for our guests must e'en partake of each dish we offer them. Soup, fish, two well contrasted entrees served separately, one joint only, game, and a dressed vegetable, one entremets Sucre, an iced pudding, cheese with hors d'œuvres and dessert, will be found, if thoughtfully composed, ample fare THE MENU. for even the most hypercritical gourmet we can bid to our table. In the studied completeness of such a dinner as this will repose its chief attraction : — in good wine, no lack of ice, the brightest plate, snowy linen, well-toned light, and tasteful adornment of the table ; with all minutiae remembered — from des petits pains in the deftly-folded napkins, to the artistic salad which in all modern menus is not expressed yet, like salt, understood to be present. An extra joint may, of course, be given, but if the two entrees be really nice, and the game about to follow be the best in season, I fail to recognize the necessity of the addition. And, here, it may not be altogether unprofitable to consider attentively certain points connected with the modern banquet upon which opinions differ, and concerning which a good many people find a difficulty in coming to a satisfactory decision. The moot point or points to which I refer are associated with the general plan or arrangement of the menu, and in order to explain them, it will be necessary to trace their cause carefully. In the days of old, our forefathers divided their bills of fare into a number of courses. Thus, the soup and fish comprised the first course ; the entrees and joint the second ; and the game and sweets the third ; cheese and dessert being served independently. But of late years, we have simplified matters, and the modern menu, adapted to a great extent, of course, from that of France, is placed before us in two " services," as exemplified in the following table : — Potage ... Sonp. Premier service ... ^ ^''^'^^^^ - ^'^^• Entrees ... Side-dishes. ^Eelevds ... Joint, or remove. Clivts ... The roast (game or poultry). Second service J ^'^'^^'"^fs ... Savory and sweet dishes. I Fromage ... Cheese.

Culinary jottings