produced by a mixture of snow or ice and salt. The production of these confections is a relatively simple process, and easy to be learned. For domestic puiqjoses the apparatus required is very compendious and simple, and the freezing materials are of low' price. Without describing apparatus or process, we point out some principles to bo absolutely observed. A guulfnl of ice would require at least 10 lb. of poxodcred fine salt. A factor in the time required for the operation is motion imparted to both the freezor and I'A/e/iriV/tS OF FROZEN PREPARAriONS 585 the freezce, if we may be allowed to use these terms. The motion of the freezes is effected by a spatula, or by revolu- tion of specially-constructed pewter cylinders, one within the other, the inner one containing the matter to be frozen, the outer one the freezing mixture. In this case the com- pletion of the process, i.c., the hardening of both sweet ice and freezing mixture, is indicated by the fact that no noise proceeding from the particles in shifting their places on rotation is heard any longer : they are all fixed. Cream ices are easily made, both as regards their com- position and their gelation. They should be used with caution. Less easily made, and requiring much more skill, are the custard ices with and without cream, for our present purpose mainly to be made with7^wZ^• and eggs, ovmilk, eggs, and flour. These custard ices are very valuable, as being easily frozen, of very good taste, very wholesome, and easy to digest, not overloading the stomach with fatty matter, as cream ices are apt to do, and fulfilling the object of the con- fection, that of cooling the tongue, stomach, and body, and affording an agreeable, yet not over-substantially nutritious, refreshment. Hence custard ices of this kind are equally acceptable to the multitude at the street booth of the itinerant Italian and at the best- appointed tables. The use of frozen 'preparations in the course of dessert has of late years been very much extended, and we think, on the whole, not with advantage to the diners. In a similar manner, the consumption of very cold, i.e., iced drinks, during dinner has much increased, and gives rise to many quite typical digestive disturbances. While we should always endeavour to have Gironde and Burgundy (red) wine on our table at a temperature of about 65° Fahr., but water and white wines, particularly hock, sherry, marsala, and white burgundy, at 52 Fahr., we may like a small quantity of sweet ice at 30 Falir., or a little below; we would slowly consume a rich, hard tri-coloured Neapolitan ice according 5S6 THE SPIRIT OP COOKERY to the rules of ladies’ company, but we should not favour so low-temperatured a confection as part of our dessert.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

produced by a mixture of snow or ice and salt. The production of these confections is a relatively simple process, and easy to be learned. For domestic purposes the apparatus required is very compendious and simple, and the freezing materials are of low' price. Without describing apparatus or process, we point out some principles to bo absolutely observed. A guulfnl of ice would require at least 10 lb. of powdered fine salt. A factor in the time required for the operation is motion imparted to both the freezor and [illustration: page header] OF FROZEN PREPARAriONS 585 the freezce, if we may be allowed to use these terms. The motion of the freezes is effected by a spatula, or by revolution of specially-constructed pewter cylinders, one within the other, the inner one containing the matter to be frozen, the outer one the freezing mixture. In this case the completion of the process, i.c., the hardening of both sweet ice and freezing mixture, is indicated by the fact that no noise proceeding from the particles in shifting their places on rotation is heard any longer : they are all fixed. Cream ices are easily made, both as regards their composition and their gelation. They should be used with caution. Less easily made, and requiring much more skill, are the custard ices with and without cream, for our present purpose mainly to be made with milk and eggs, ovmilk, eggs, and flour. These custard ices are very valuable, as being easily frozen, of very good taste, very wholesome, and easy to digest, not overloading the stomach with fatty matter, as cream ices are apt to do, and fulfilling the object of the confection, that of cooling the tongue, stomach, and body, and affording an agreeable, yet not over-substantially nutritious, refreshment. Hence custard ices of this kind are equally acceptable to the multitude at the street booth of the itinerant Italian and at the best- appointed tables. The use of frozen 'preparations in the course of dessert has of late years been very much extended, and we think, on the whole, not with advantage to the diners. In a similar manner, the consumption of very cold, i.e., iced drinks, during dinner has much increased, and gives rise to many quite typical digestive disturbances. While we should always endeavour to have Gironde and Burgundy (red) wine on our table at a temperature of about 65° Fahr., but water and white wines, particularly hock, sherry, marsala, and white burgundy, at 52 Fahr., we may like a small quantity of sweet ice at 30 Falir., or a little below; we would slowly consume a rich, hard tri-coloured Neapolitan ice according 5S6 to the rules of ladies’ company, but we should not favour so low-temperatured a confection as part of our dessert.

The spirit of cookery