We quote a few titles from our great record of tested
recipes : Iced Custard in Shells of Parisian Cake, loith Com-
pote of Greeiujarjes ; Iced Bice Puddimj, with Conipdte of
Oranges ; Iced Gauffre and Custard Pudding, vjiih Macd-
dmne ; Iced Custard and Strawherry, with Compound Mace-
doine; Iced Pineapple Purde Custard, with Mcccddoine in
Water Ice ; Iced, Custard, with Boast Almonds, and a centre
of Apricot or Orange Jam; Iced Bice Custard with Iced
Apricot Jam; Iced Almond and Custard with Iced Apricot
Jam; Iced Filbert and Kentish Cherry Purde with Cream;
Iced Batafia Custard with Maraschino ; Iced Chestnut and
Fruit Pudding (called Nesselrode) ; Walmd Purde and Green-
gage Jam Ice ; Iced Souffles, flavoured with Liqueurs.
Sqwngadas, or frozen froths, like ices in general, are
Italian inventions. The recipes which have been given out
are explicit enough as to the details of the ingredients, but
they one and all fail to describe the mode incautiously
alluded to by a single recipe, in which is introduced the
fixed air necessary to promote its lightness, and by means of
which its vohme is increased twofold. There is therefore
here undoubtedly a trade secret concealed, which, however
trivial it may be (perhaps mere white of egg, or it may not
amount to mor’e than the addition of a tablespoonful of
effervescent mixture of bicarbonate of soda and citric
acid), is essential to the complete success of the opera-
tion.
Every froth is a spongada, or may be called so, in allu-
sion to the resemblance of its structure to a sponge. We
have the appellation in sponge-cake, but spongada is still
more expressive, as including the idea of a thing made to
appear like a sponge. From this point of view soufflds
may be termed spongadas, many bavaroises the same, and
SPONGADAS AND FRUIT ICES
5S7
evei'y preparation containing much lohippcd cream, or being
whij^pecl cream itself, may justly receive the same name.
We give a few titles of recipes from our approved collec-
tions : Chocolate Spongada with Pistachios and Ginger Com-
fits— these and other comfits, little white or coloured sugar
beans flavoured with specific essences, are cdements of diver-
sion, requiring crunching and evolving flavour contrasting
to the other materials of the composition (Spongada di
Eoma); Sj)07igada of Almonds and Crea^n (Spongada di
Toledo), flavoured with Kirsch-icass, French abbreviation of
Kirschenwasser , cherry-water ; Compound Spongada of Pis-
tachio Puree u'ith Apricot Icc ; and variations.
Special hinds of ices are Apricot Ice, once in favour with
Mesdames de France — one of their cooks, Cohier de Lompier,
left a recipe for its confection ; Pineapple Ice — the recipes
relating to this ice appear to us not very practical ; Iced
Vanilla and Custard Cream, probably better defined as a
crecmi custard with excess of cream; Iced Custard Cream
with Flou-ers of Cedrat — all other kinds of flowers (suitable
for confections) may be used in the same manner : cddrat
is the Citrus medicct (Risso), better known in the Bast
than with us ; Iced Custcml Cream tuith Pistachio Purde and
Spinach Green — for the cream which is omitted a mixture
of sugar syrup and white of egg is substituted. A variation
of the spongada, omitting the cream, could not attain the
quality of the original cream ice, and for this reason was
complictead with Jced Apricot Parde. Iced Chocolate Custard
Cream and Iced Cofee Custard Cream close the selection.
Page 370
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
We quote a few titles from our great record of tested
recipes : Iced Custard in Shells of Parisian Cake, loith Com-
pote of Greeiujarjes ; Iced Bice Puddimj, with Conipdte of
Oranges ; Iced Gauffre and Custard Pudding, vjiih Macd-
dmne ; Iced Custard and Strawherry, with Compound Mace-
doine; Iced Pineapple Purde Custard, with Mcccddoine in
Water Ice ; Iced, Custard, with Boast Almonds, and a centre
of Apricot or Orange Jam; Iced Bice Custard with Iced
Apricot Jam; Iced Almond and Custard with Iced Apricot
Jam; Iced Filbert and Kentish Cherry Purde with Cream;
Iced Batafia Custard with Maraschino ; Iced Chestnut and
Fruit Pudding (called Nesselrode) ; Walmd Purde and Green-
gage Jam Ice ; Iced Souffles, flavoured with Liqueurs.
Sqwngadas, or frozen froths, like ices in general, are
Italian inventions. The recipes which have been given out
are explicit enough as to the details of the ingredients, but
they one and all fail to describe the mode incautiously
alluded to by a single recipe, in which is introduced the
fixed air necessary to promote its lightness, and by means of
which its vohme is increased twofold. There is therefore
here undoubtedly a trade secret concealed, which, however
trivial it may be (perhaps mere white of egg, or it may not
amount to mor’e than the addition of a tablespoonful of
effervescent mixture of bicarbonate of soda and citric
acid), is essential to the complete success of the opera-
tion.
Every froth is a spongada, or may be called so, in allu-
sion to the resemblance of its structure to a sponge. We
have the appellation in sponge-cake, but spongada is still
more expressive, as including the idea of a thing made to
appear like a sponge. From this point of view soufflds
may be termed spongadas, many bavaroises the same, and
SPONGADAS AND FRUIT ICES
5S7
evei'y preparation containing much lohippcd cream, or being
whij^pecl cream itself, may justly receive the same name.
We give a few titles of recipes from our approved collec-
tions : Chocolate Spongada with Pistachios and Ginger Com-
fits— these and other comfits, little white or coloured sugar
beans flavoured with specific essences, are cdements of diver-
sion, requiring crunching and evolving flavour contrasting
to the other materials of the composition (Spongada di
Eoma); Sj)07igada of Almonds and Crea^n (Spongada di
Toledo), flavoured with Kirsch-icass, French abbreviation of
Kirschenwasser , cherry-water ; Compound Spongada of Pis-
tachio Puree u'ith Apricot Icc ; and variations.
Special hinds of ices are Apricot Ice, once in favour with
Mesdames de France — one of their cooks, Cohier de Lompier,
left a recipe for its confection ; Pineapple Ice — the recipes
relating to this ice appear to us not very practical ; Iced
Vanilla and Custard Cream, probably better defined as a
crecmi custard with excess of cream; Iced Custard Cream
with Flou-ers of Cedrat — all other kinds of flowers (suitable
for confections) may be used in the same manner : cddrat
is the Citrus medicct (Risso), better known in the Bast
than with us ; Iced Custcml Cream tuith Pistachio Purde and
Spinach Green — for the cream which is omitted a mixture
of sugar syrup and white of egg is substituted. A variation
of the spongada, omitting the cream, could not attain the
quality of the original cream ice, and for this reason was
complictead with Jced Apricot Parde. Iced Chocolate Custard
Cream and Iced Cofee Custard Cream close the selection.