The spirit of cookery

bute much to the diminution of festival gastric derangements. The juices most commonly used for such water ices are those of lemons, limes, oranges, raspberries, strawberries , gooseberries, currants, cherries [sweet and Kentish or Vistula), rhubarb, pineapples, verjuice of muscatel grapes, mangos, apricots, peaches, greengages, mulberries. When any of the foregoing water ices are mixed with cream, for which the coloured ones are more particularly suitable, a new series of compounds arises, which we may term compound water ices. In a similar manner, when any of these ices are mixed with custard ice, or cream ice and custard ice at the same time, compound water cream and custard ices arise, which are generally very complicated and rich preparations. Custard ices l)y themselves and cream ices by themselves are preferred to the compound ones for certain purposes. Some difficulty caused by the want of viscosity or substance in the fruit water ices has been overcome by the following variation, which we may call fruit puree ices. Fruit purees are more easily frozen than juices, and therefore easier to manage in the kitchen. There are used purees of almonds, ivalnuts, filberts, pistachios, and of several varieties of fruit, which, like apricots, quinces, peaches, and others, form jams of agreeable consistency and appearance. When such fruit purees are mixed or combined with custard, cream, and cakes in pieces, the latter soaked in dilute liqueurs or wine, or with macroons or ratafias, the preparation becomes a so-called ice pudding. Ice puddings the highest complication of the several preparations of this class. They include as remarkable representatives a rice pudding transformed into an icy isonymic, compositions of Parisian and other cakes, of gaufres, macaroons, and ratafias. We even see chestnuts as a basis of a complex pudding, and the black bread of Westphalia, Pumpernickel, assist in increasing by a forcible, 5«4 almost satirical, contrast the indigestibility of several of these ices. Spongolas, lastly, are mere compound cream ices, to which so much white of egg has been added that by dexterous manipulation the whole mixture may form a heavy froth of twice the original volume of the ingredients. The arrangement in one group of preparations which have mainly this feature in common, that they are cooled down artificially below the freezing-point of water, and thereby, in part at least, congealed so as to be hard and resistant, is a mere matter of convenience suggested by the materials and apparatus employed, and the means required to keep the preparations ready for use at the desired moment. Notwithstanding their being here massed together, frozen preparations belong to different classes of the culinary list. A rigid adherence to definite classification would compel us to range an iced or ice pudding with puddings; a frozen cake with cakes ; a custard with preparations of eggs ami milk. A sweet solution of any fruit juice, called in Oriental language a sherbet, remains so, though it be made solid by frost ; lemonade remains so, though it be made solid under the name of lemon-water ice. The frozen bavaroises, which we have termed compound jellies, or cream jellies, remain exactly the same in composition and definition whether they are served at the mean temperature of the earth, in our latitude about 52° Fahr., or at a much lower temperature,