rare kinds of birds. The principal meat puddings in par- ticular, and their compositions U'ith Ictdneys, do not depend upon season, admit of accurate calculation as to cost, are nutritive, savoury, and eatable to the very last particle, without residue ; to this the bones of cutlets only form an exception, and these can be avoided if slices from the leg be taken instead of the neck and back. Sausage Paulding, in particular, is a dish which can be quickly made, and though it requires some time for boiling the crust, the con- tents are more quickly, and therefore more thoroughly, done. It is also certain that, while baked pies, wuth the same ingredients, are not rarely of mediocre quality, contain hard meat, or show a burnt or doughy crust, boiled suet puddings are the least liable to any accident, and should therefore be prepared from time to time in every household, if only to maintain the practice. A p>ie is a quantity of meat or fruit baked in a dish while it is covered with a layer of paste which is baked along with it. The etyviology of the word pe is uncertain, some deriving it from the Irish and Gaelic name, pt^d^e, for the same dish. But it is more probable that ‘ pie ’ is the older, and ‘ pighe ’ the derived form ; we conclude this from the fact that not only the word, but also the dish, are jpecidiarly national to England, and interwoven with the history of its culture,* * In Jeaffreson’s ‘Book about the Table,’ vol. ii., p. 50, is a citation of the work ‘The Court and Kitchen of Elizabeth Cromwell,’ referring to pear pie, made of Wardens, i.e.. Warden pears, which pie was ordinarily called Warden pie. On pp. 52 and 53 Jeaffreson quotes Webster and Pegge’s ‘ Ancient Cookery,’ No. 3, in explanation of humble pie as derived Irom iimhles, a metonymic of the Latin umbilicus, meaning the middle, entrails, and other internal parts of deer. Umbles was also meta- morphosed into nombuls, to signify entrails (or middle parts ?) of calves swine and sheep, and of large fish : ‘ Nombuls of purpoys, pykes, congers’, and great cod lyng.’ The time of the origin of the metaphorical humble pie, and of its eating or being eaten, is not known ; it probably resulted from a pun. Frog pies were introduced into England from Italy by Thomas Coryate (Eurcifer), and much eaten in Loudon during the time from •lames I. to the death of Charles II. llobert May gave a recipe for their production. .Teaffreson, Zoc. cit., ii. 57, also mentions surprise pies, which 564 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY and that no other nation has to show anything like this. The French raised pies are products of special artists, and not poj)ular food preparations, and they are used for the cooking of meat mainly, and hardly ever for the service of fruit. It is the universality of its applicability which makes pie so remarkable a form of food preparation. Of late it has become a practice of some circles to call fruit pies tarts. This should be avoided, as it is quite incorrect. In the true tart, the fruit is inside a ring of baked dough ; in the derived tart, such as it has been accepted in English life, the fruit is on the top of the baked dough. As regards meat pies, we are happy to say this erroneous nomenclature has not yet been attempted, and we hope it never will.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

rare kinds of birds. The principal meat puddings in particular, and their compositions with kidneys, do not depend upon season, admit of accurate calculation as to cost, are nutritive, savoury, and eatable to the very last particle, without residue ; to this the bones of cutlets only form an exception, and these can be avoided if slices from the leg be taken instead of the neck and back. Sausage Paulding, in particular, is a dish which can be quickly made, and though it requires some time for boiling the crust, the contents are more quickly, and therefore more thoroughly, done. It is also certain that, while baked pies, with the same ingredients, are not rarely of mediocre quality, contain hard meat, or show a burnt or doughy crust, boiled suet puddings are the least liable to any accident, and should therefore be prepared from time to time in every household, if only to maintain the practice. A pie is a quantity of meat or fruit baked in a dish while it is covered with a layer of paste which is baked along with it. The etymology of the word pie is uncertain, some deriving it from the Irish and Gaelic name, pidie, for the same dish. But it is more probable that ‘ pie ’ is the older, and ‘ pighe ’ the derived form ; we conclude this from the fact that not only the word, but also the dish, are peculiarly national to England, and interwoven with the history of its culture,* * In Jeaffreson’s ‘Book about the Table,’ vol. ii., p. 50, is a citation of the work ‘The Court and Kitchen of Elizabeth Cromwell,’ referring to pear pie, made of Wardens, i.e.. Warden pears, which pie was ordinarily called Warden pie. On pp. 52 and 53 Jeaffreson quotes Webster and Pegge’s ‘ Ancient Cookery,’ No. 3, in explanation of humble pie as derived Irom iimhles, a metonymic of the Latin umbilicus, meaning the middle, entrails, and other internal parts of deer. Umbles was also metamorphosed into nombuls, to signify entrails (or middle parts ?) of calves swine and sheep, and of large fish : ‘ Nombuls of purpoys, pykes, congers’, and great cod lyng.’ The time of the origin of the metaphorical humble pie, and of its eating or being eaten, is not known ; it probably resulted from a pun. Frog pies were introduced into England from Italy by Thomas Coryate (Eurcifer), and much eaten in Loudon during the time from •lames I. to the death of Charles II. llobert May gave a recipe for their production. .Teaffreson, Zoc. cit., ii. 57, also mentions surprise pies, which and that no other nation has to show anything like this. The French raised pies are products of special artists, and not popular food preparations, and they are used for the cooking of meat mainly, and hardly ever for the service of fruit. It is the universality of its applicability which makes pie so remarkable a form of food preparation. Of late it has become a practice of some circles to call fruit pies tarts. This should be avoided, as it is quite incorrect. In the true tart, the fruit is inside a ring of baked dough ; in the derived tart, such as it has been accepted in English life, the fruit is on the top of the baked dough. As regards meat pies, we are happy to say this erroneous nomenclature has not yet been attempted, and we hope it never will.

The spirit of cookery