FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 354

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
A great variety of molluscs in shells are considered edible in the cooked state in many parts of the world ; on some American markets such shellfish, removed from their tests, are sold by the gallon and bushel. Some of these edible molluscs are very large, e.g., the hammussel, Pinna squa- mosa, which is fished up from the bottom of the salt lakes of Meleda, one of the larger Dalmatian islands. The animal is eaten stewed in risotto ; it attains a length of from two to three feet. It also yields the silky byssus, which is used for makiug gloves and other tissues. The octopus or sepia was eaten by Greeks and Eomans, and is used in the South of Spain in the present day. The cartilaginous plate of its back, when trimmed and stewed, is much like the tendrons of veal. A sauce of reduced esp agnole, coloured deep>ly icith the ink from the hag of the seina, is sent to table with it. This preparation is an attractive, refined, and digestible dish. The 2yrep>aration of a dish of frogs has led to the greatest of modern inventions, namely, galvanic electricity. Nobody would probably take to a frog diet, or arrange a meal of frogs, out of enthusiasm for this fact. But thousands living 36 562 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY in countries where frogs are large and numerous prepare some excellent dishes from these amphibious animals. We have prepared them ourselves, and think highly of them. Thus, grilled on a skewer, basted with butter, or crumbed over, the thighs form an excellent honne-bouche. They may be dressed like sweet-water fish, fried in butter, or stewed in white or brown sauce. A Wilrtemberg nobleman suffering from dyspepsia had been allowed by his physician to eat a dish of frogs’ thighs. As his symptoms returned acutely after it, he sent for the doctor and complained of the permission. The doctor, with great presence of mind, declared that what the patient had eaten must have been toads' thighs, and this impromptu terminated the incident to general satisfaction. The iguana is a small lizard living in the West Indies and Central America. It is much sought after for its fine- flavoured meat, and will in course of time become extinct in consequence. Preparations of turtle have been discussed under the head of soups. Formerly the flesh of turtle was much valued, but at the present time it is hardly ever eaten. CHAPTEE L. MEAT PUDDINGS, PIES, PATES-CHAUDS, RAISED PIES, VOL-AU-VENTS, TIMBALES, CASSEROLES. A CHAPTEK on boiled suet puddings would furnish recipes for at least eleven pirincipal dishes ; but including the varia- tions and the compound puddings, we obtain a number approaching thirty, not to mention those which are only indicated as feasible, such as preparations to be made with MEAT PUDDINGS AND PIES 563