Calf’s Kidneys are minced and braised, and go well, with
a brown sauce.
Tendrons of Veal have already been alluded to above.
The French word tendron, in its widest significance, means
gristle ; but in Smith and Hamilton’s Dictionary ‘ gristle ’
is not translated back into French teiulron, but into cartilage.
Popularly, tendinous parts of joints are termed gristle, but
they cannot also be termed tendrons. The necessity for
the discussion of this terminology will be understood from
the fact that, in several English and French works, the
term tendrons is persistently given as tendons,* meaning a
totally different thing — namely, sineios. Tendrons, then, in
our system, implies the cartilages which intervene between
the breast-bone and the ribs attached thereto. If ever the
word had, or has, any other significance, such will, for the
purposes of this work, be excluded from consideration.
Temlrons are dressed d la potdette, in shape of peacock's
tail, in macedoine, in mayonnaise, in ravigotc, mannaded and
* Beauvilliers is, according to my observation, the first who persistently,
through nine recipes, erroneously writes tendons, instead of tendrons.
The error, now nearly a century old, has been introduced into nearly all
French and English cookery-books. Rottenhbfer gives nineteen reciiies
for tendrons, and spells the word correctly.
VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF VEAL
455
fried, twice covered with crumbs and hatter and fried, in a
casserole of rice, as ragoilt, cn mdtelote, a la jardinidre, etc.
These cartilages, although quite indigestible, are fancied
as dishes ; probably some pleasure is derived from crunching
a somewhat resistent, yet frangible, substance, in the presence
of a tasty sauce.
Kernels of Veal are lymphatic glands, cut out of joints
and mesentery [petits noix-^e.g., d’ipaule de vcato) \ they
may be braised and treated like sweetbread.
The G-renade, or Granada, or Granadin of Veal is a dish
of German origin— an imitation of the structure of a Spanish
small bomb filled with gunpowder and small missiles. In
French culinary literature the dish was gradually lost ; but
a modification of the name survived in objects which had
no bearing upon the name, and in no way justified or
explained it. The dish should perhaps be placed under
the chapter referring to Pdtds Ghaicds, or Timbales.
White Veal Gollops, or Slices, are a neat supper dish, and
do not take up much time for their preparation. When
intended to be served up in form, the addition of egg-balls,
forcemeat-balls, and mushrooms will be advisable. There
is a distinct English form of this dish to be placed round a
ragout of godiveau.
Popiettes or Paiipiettes of Veal are rolled thin scollops,
enclosing a cooked farce of veal or fowl, braised, and covered
with espagnole.
Ildtelets of Veal are such popiettes fixed ou skewers
{hdtelets), and roasted in oiled paper. (These are erroneously
termed hdtereaux by Beauvilliers, i. 161.)
Gushion of Veal may be stewed plain, or as glaced
fricandeau. A form for which it is sliced and stuffed is
called Manchons de Veau d la Girard. The rolled stuffed
pieces have the shape of little muffs — hence the name.
This dish was the result of the effort which an assistant-
cook [aide aux entries) of Madame de Pompadour made
THE SJ'IRIT OF COOKERY
45(i
Page 287
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Calf’s Kidneys are minced and braised, and go well, with a brown sauce.
Tendrons of Veal have already been alluded to above. The French word tendron, in its widest significance, means gristle ; but in Smith and Hamilton’s Dictionary ‘ gristle ’ is not translated back into French tendron, but into cartilage. Popularly, tendinous parts of joints are termed gristle, but they cannot also be termed tendrons. The necessity for the discussion of this terminology will be understood from the fact that, in several English and French works, the term tendrons is persistently given as tendons,* meaning a totally different thing — namely, sineios. Tendrons, then, in our system, implies the cartilages which intervene between the breast-bone and the ribs attached thereto. If ever the word had, or has, any other significance, such will, for the purposes of this work, be excluded from consideration.
Tendrons are dressed d la poulette, in shape of peacock's tail, in macedoine, in mayonnaise, in ravigote, mannaded and
* Beauvilliers is, according to my observation, the first who persistently, through nine recipes, erroneously writes tendons, instead of tendrons. The error, now nearly a century old, has been introduced into nearly all French and English cookery-books. Rottenbauer gives nineteen reciiies for tendrons, and spells the word correctly.
VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF VEAL
fried, twice covered with crumbs and hatter and fried, in a casserole of rice, as ragout, en matelote, a la jardiniève, etc.
These cartilages, although quite indigestible, are fancied as dishes ; probably some pleasure is derived from crunching a somewhat resistent, yet frangible, substance, in the presence of a tasty sauce.
Kernels of Veal are lymphatic glands, cut out of joints and mesentery [petits noix—e.g., d'épaule de veau) \ they may be braised and treated like sweetbread.
The G-renade, or Granada, or Granadin of Veal is a dish of German origin— an imitation of the structure of a Spanish small bomb filled with gunpowder and small missiles. In French culinary literature the dish was gradually lost ; but a modification of the name survived in objects which had no bearing upon the name, and in no way justified or explained it. The dish should perhaps be placed under the chapter referring to Pâtés Chauds, or Timbales.
White Veal Gollops, or Slices, are a neat supper dish, and do not take up much time for their preparation. When intended to be served up in form, the addition of egg-balls, forcemeat-balls, and mushrooms will be advisable. There is a distinct English form of this dish to be placed round a ragout of godiveau.
Popiettes or Paupiettes of Veal are rolled thin scollops, enclosing a cooked farce of veal or fowl, braised, and covered with espagnole.
Hâtelets of Veal are such popiettes fixed ou skewers {hdtelets), and roasted in oiled paper. (These are erroneously termed hdtereaux by Beauvilliers, i. 161.)
Cushion of Veal may be stewed plain, or as glaced fricandeau. A form for which it is sliced and stuffed is called Manchons de Veau à la Girard. The rolled stuffed pieces have the shape of little muffs — hence the name. This dish was the result of the effort which an assistantcook [aide aux entries) of Madame de Pompadour made
45(i