It may be marinaded in diluted vinegar, and fried in batter ; or it may be stezved, and accommodated with brozen bzitter as a sauce. Or the stewed brain, suitably divided, may be steeped in a thick sazicc, zorapzpcd izi cazd, and baked in the oven. Stewed brain may also be given as a cold dish in a mayonnaise, a dish which, when flavoured with garlic, is termed d la Pz'ovenqale. Calf’s Ears are a fancy dish much like tendrons, lamb’s feet, and similar extreme ends of animals used for food, aud require much work in their preparation. The ears, having been fully prepared by the butcher, are to be parboiled, CALF'S TONGUE, LIVER, AND SWEETBREAD 453 braised, and perfectly cooked, and then all the soft shin is to be scraped off, and the xohite gristle, meaning the cartilage, only is to bo left as the part to bo eaten, the only digestible part being thus rejected, and the indigestible retained. One of the recipes containing such extreme directions is entitled d la Tortue, but should be en Tortuc if there were any resemblance to any turtle preparations about it ; it is a title of no significance, and should be expunged. Ears may be stujfed and fried in hatter, or marinaded and fried, or steiued, critmbed, and baked d la Ste. Mdndhmold, or fried with mushrooms. Calf’s Tongtte is prepared generally like ox-tongue. Calf’s Lights {moit de veatc) are stewed. The Pluck includes heart and liver as well as lights. It is first scalded, then braised ; it may also be curried or fried. Calf’s Liver fried is an excellent dish, on account of the osmazome which it forms during frying. The slices should be of equal thickness and size, well dredged with flour, and fried thoroughly, but not hard. A favourite addition is fried bacon✪ Fried Calf's Liver, which enhances the taste. French recipes for sauces are mostly good, except such as d la po6le, to which a pint of wine is to be added. Braised Calf's Liver is an accomplished dish, and a regular piece of art is the Larded Liver roast as a xvhole on the spit. It should be covered with a buttered paper, and thus really roasted en papillate. Liver and Bacon, in French pain de foie do veaii,, is baked in a mould. The Sweetbread, or Pancreas, is a secretory gland which lies close to the liver, and sends its secretion, the pancreatic jic-ice, into the upper part of the intestinal canal, through a duct which opens close to the gall-duct. In its uncooked state, the pancreas has powerful digestive effects upon flesh, milk, starch, and similar substances. But these powers are destroyed by boiling, and sweetbread is eaten, not for any peptic effect, but for its delicate flavour and its invariable 454 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY tenderness. The sweetbreads of adult bovines are also very good, and, owing to their size, offer better opportunities for preparation. In French, all sweetbread, whether from calves, cows, or oxen, is called ris de veaic, a name the derivation of which is not very certain. In dictionaries the word is ranged under ris, laughter. Sweetbread may be larded and braised, and dished with espagnole ; or it may be cut into Icebohs (klmbabs), skewered, and braised — Hdtelets de Bis de Vea^^ ; or it may be made into a ragout, and offered in a pudding-case. It may be crumbed and baked; prepared with nmshrooms and truffles; as fricandeau ; glaced ; in croquettes or en cassolettes ; in loapillotes, and various other forms.

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It may be marinaded in diluted vinegar, and fried in batter ; or it may be stezved, and accommodated with brozen bzitter as a sauce. Or the stewed brain, suitably divided, may be steeped in a thick sazicc, zorapzpcd izi cazd, and baked in the oven. Stewed brain may also be given as a cold dish in a mayonnaise, a dish which, when flavoured with garlic, is termed d la Pz'ovenqale. Calf’s Ears are a fancy dish much like tendrons, lamb’s feet, and similar extreme ends of animals used for food, aud require much work in their preparation. The ears, having been fully prepared by the butcher, are to be parboiled, CALF'S TONGUE, LIVER, AND SWEETBREAD 453 braised, and perfectly cooked, and then all the soft shin is to be scraped off, and the xohite gristle, meaning the cartilage, only is to bo left as the part to bo eaten, the only digestible part being thus rejected, and the indigestible retained. One of the recipes containing such extreme directions is entitled d la Tortue, but should be en Tortuc if there were any resemblance to any turtle preparations about it ; it is a title of no significance, and should be expunged. Ears may be stujfed and fried in hatter, or marinaded and fried, or steiued, critmbed, and baked d la Ste. Mdndhmold, or fried with mushrooms. Calf’s Tongtte is prepared generally like ox-tongue. Calf’s Lights {moit de veatc) are stewed. The Pluck includes heart and liver as well as lights. It is first scalded, then braised ; it may also be curried or fried. Calf’s Liver fried is an excellent dish, on account of the osmazome which it forms during frying. The slices should be of equal thickness and size, well dredged with flour, and fried thoroughly, but not hard. A favourite addition is fried bacon, which enhances the taste. French recipes for sauces are mostly good, except such as d la po6le, to which a pint of wine is to be added. Braised Calf's Liver is an accomplished dish, and a regular piece of art is the Larded Liver roast as a xvhole on the spit. It should be covered with a buttered paper, and thus really roasted en papillate. Liver and Bacon, in French pain de foie do veaii,, is baked in a mould. The Sweetbread, or Pancreas, is a secretory gland which lies close to the liver, and sends its secretion, the pancreatic jic-ice, into the upper part of the intestinal canal, through a duct which opens close to the gall-duct. In its uncooked state, the pancreas has powerful digestive effects upon flesh, milk, starch, and similar substances. But these powers are destroyed by boiling, and sweetbread is eaten, not for any peptic effect, but for its delicate flavour and its invariable 454 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY tenderness. The sweetbreads of adult bovines are also very good, and, owing to their size, offer better opportunities for preparation. In French, all sweetbread, whether from calves, cows, or oxen, is called ris de veaic, a name the derivation of which is not very certain. In dictionaries the word is ranged under ris, laughter. Sweetbread may be larded and braised, and dished with espagnole ; or it may be cut into Icebohs (klmbabs), skewered, and braised — Hdtelets de Bis de Vea^^ ; or it may be made into a ragout, and offered in a pudding-case. It may be crumbed and baked; prepared with nmshrooms and truffles; as fricandeau ; glaced ; in croquettes or en cassolettes ; in loapillotes, and various other forms.

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