when desired to ijroduce a mels tliat should bear her name. Just before writing the imnu, he thought the materials too simple for the purpose, and therefore gave to the dish his own name. In consequence, an inappropriate, or miscarried, or otherwise objectionable dish, is sometimes called d la Girard. Of the Shoulder of Veal there are many preparations. The Savoury Shoulder of Veal given by Ignotus requires great attention and skill on the part of the cook ; so does the French form, boned, larded, and braised with the seven roots. It may be given the form of a haypipe. According to Dumas, there is extant a letter by Voiture to his friend Costar in which the poet of Anne of Austria describes the high estimation in which he held this dish. The boned shoulder may also receive the form of a galantine. Most commonly the shoulder is provided with some stalling and roasted. The other preparations of veal repeat the features of the foregoing ones. The Neck is roast, or braised, or sauced, crumbed, and baked. The Breast of Veal is best stewed, or dressed in form of collops, or kebobs, with green peas ; it may be stuffed, braised, or roasted. It contains or yields the tendrons, or rib cartilages, of which we have treated above ; it may also be boned, stuffed, rolled, and braised. Tlie Loin of Veal, French longe, is frequently used boned, i.e., filleted; it may be eaten in the plain roast form, or further treated in various ways. Veal Cutlets (cdteleties) properly so called should be trans- versal sections of the back of the calf carrying ribs ; such are easily made on the carcases of young calves, but when made of larger animals becomes unwieldy, or require much trim- ming to be brought to a desirable size. For this reason cutlets in this country are mostly made out of the solid sections of the leg, such as the French call tronqons, while in Loudon, at least, they are sold under the entirely false PREPAKATIONS OF VEAL AND OF jMU'TTON 457 uaiue of fillets. Thus, cutlets become mere slices, collops, and have no longer any connection with ribs. They are liable to numerous forms of dressing. They may be braised, or studded {puiudes) and braised, or fried loiih ham, or in butter [sautdes), and glaced, or grilled {aiL naturel), or provided with a variety of sauces and fancy names. Calf's Feet are prepared in most respects like calf’s head, and in some like coio's heel ; but in the latter the skin is partly removed, while in the calf’s feet it is left entire. CHAPTEE XXXVIII. PREPARATIONS OF MUTTON. In Great Britain mutton is the most generally useful form of animal food, as well on account of its intrinsic qualities as of the adaptability of its parts to the smallest and largest wants. In Scotland, where barley, thistles, and sheep thrive equally well, mutton enjoys various forms of popular preparation, which lose much by transference to other climates. The preparation of the head of the sheep for cooking there begins with singeing with a red-hot iron ; if this were practised in London, it would lead to the inter- ference of sanitary committees of vestries, perhaps of the Local Government Board itself ; however, singeing com- pleted, the horns, if any are present, are sawed off ; the head is soaked in warm water and scraped. In England the head is mostly deprived of its skin, which is con- sequently not cooked.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

when desired to produce a meal that should bear her name. Just before writing the imnu, he thought the materials too simple for the purpose, and therefore gave to the dish his own name. In consequence, an inappropriate, or miscarried, or otherwise objectionable dish, is sometimes called d la Girard. Of the Shoulder of Veal there are many preparations. The Savoury Shoulder of Veal given by Ignotus requires great attention and skill on the part of the cook ; so does the French form, boned, larded, and braised with the seven roots. It may be given the form of a haypipe. According to Dumas, there is extant a letter by Voiture to his friend Costar in which the poet of Anne of Austria describes the high estimation in which he held this dish. The boned shoulder may also receive the form of a galantine. Most commonly the shoulder is provided with some stuffing and roasted. The other preparations of veal repeat the features of the foregoing ones. The Neck is roast, or braised, or sauced, crumbed, and baked. The Breast of Veal is best stewed, or dressed in form of collops, or kebobs, with green peas ; it may be stuffed, braised, or roasted. It contains or yields the tendrons, or rib cartilages, of which we have treated above ; it may also be boned, stuffed, rolled, and braised. Tlie Loin of Veal, French longe, is frequently used boned, i.e., filleted; it may be eaten in the plain roast form, or further treated in various ways. Veal Cutlets (côtelettes) properly so called should be transversal sections of the back of the calf carrying ribs ; such are easily made on the carcases of young calves, but when made of larger animals becomes unwieldy, or require much trimming to be brought to a desirable size. For this reason cutlets in this country are mostly made out of the solid sections of the leg, such as the French call tronçons, while in Loudon, at least, they are sold under the entirely false PREPARATIONS OF VEAL AND OF jMU'TTON 457 name of fillets. Thus, cutlets become mere slices, collops, and have no longer any connection with ribs. They are liable to numerous forms of dressing. They may be braised, or studded {piquées) and braised, or fried loiih ham, or in butter [sautdes), and glaced, or grilled {aiL naturel), or provided with a variety of sauces and fancy names. Calf's Feet are prepared in most respects like calf’s head, and in some like coio's heel ; but in the latter the skin is partly removed, while in the calf’s feet it is left entire. CHAPTER XXXVIII. PREPARATIONS OF MUTTON. In Great Britain mutton is the most generally useful form of animal food, as well on account of its intrinsic qualities as of the adaptability of its parts to the smallest and largest wants. In Scotland, where barley, thistles, and sheep thrive equally well, mutton enjoys various forms of popular preparation, which lose much by transference to other climates. The preparation of the head of the sheep for cooking there begins with singeing with a red-hot iron ; if this were practised in London, it would lead to the interference of sanitary committees of vestries, perhaps of the Local Government Board itself ; however, singeing completed, the horns, if any are present, are sawed off ; the head is soaked in warm water and scraped. In England the head is mostly deprived of its skin, which is consequently not cooked.

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