' The Bound of Beef is mostly salted and boiled, latterly,
\ with the aid of the improved cooking-ranges, not rarely
! braised, a form in which we prefer it to the boiled. The
braising should be begun with standard broth, and be
effected in a well-heated oven in a closed braising-pan. If
no such pan be at hand, cover the joint with a coat of
dough.
The Sportsman s Bound, or Boeuf de Chasse, is the ancient
title of the largest joint that graces the table of hunting-
parties. The name has been limited to the narrow title of
438
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
‘ Hunting Beef,’ and, worse still, to the inappropriate sur-
name of d la Chasseur. The recipes for its preparation from
the beginning of last century, which we have compared,
surpass in care and completeness all others of which we
have cognisance. This comparison has convinced us even
more forcibly than many others, that culinary literature has
been, so to say, ‘ cockneyfied ’ in a lamentable manner, and
has thereby lost much of the freshness and the grandeur of
country customs.
A preparation of the Flanks of Beef is called Collared Beef.
In cookery-books, which are now approaching their centenary,
we find many meat and fish preparations designated as
collared. Many of these in newer works are termed ‘ rolled,’
from which the equivalence of collared and rolled may be
inferred. But a number of dishes were anciently or are still
called collared, there being in the manipulation to which
they are subjected no item which could explain the adjec-
tive. In these cases we suppose the adjective to have been
acquired by the similarity of the collateral treatment pre-
ceding or following the rolling. Amongst the collared
dishes of distinction are : Collared Eel, Collared Sucking-
pig, Calf’s-head collccrcd in imitation of Brawn, Collared
Pig’s-head, and a dish termed S7nall Collars, made of the
feet and ears of large pigs, representing a kind of brawn.
What is now mostly called a Boll of Beef, or Collared Beef,
is made more often of the flank. When it is not rolled, but
kept flat, it is called Pressed Beef.
The Bump of Beef a la Dauhe is important, as it exhibits
the different meanings of two very similar words, the French
substantive daube, a stew, and the English verb to daub,
meaning to kml (probably in a peculiar rough way differing
from the finer larding). Example, Gigot d la Daube = leg of
mutton stewed. The French verb dauber has no culinary
application. In some books, to dauhe (with the final e) is
used as equivalent to larding, or, as an author has it, intci-
PREPARATIONS OF BEEF
439
Page 276
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The Round of Beef is mostly salted and boiled, latterly,
\ with the aid of the improved cooking-ranges, not rarely ! braised, a form in which we prefer it to the boiled. The braising should be begun with standard broth, and be effected in a well-heated oven in a closed braising-pan. If no such pan be at hand, cover the joint with a coat of dough.
The Sportsman s Bound, or Boeuf de Chasse, is the ancient title of the largest joint that graces the table of huntingparties. The name has been limited to the narrow title of
‘ Hunting Beef,’ and, worse still, to the inappropriate surname of d la Chasseur. The recipes for its preparation from the beginning of last century, which we have compared, surpass in care and completeness all others of which we have cognisance. This comparison has convinced us even more forcibly than many others, that culinary literature has been, so to say, ‘ cockneyfied ’ in a lamentable manner, and has thereby lost much of the freshness and the grandeur of country customs.
A preparation of the Flanks of Beef is called Collared Beef. In cookery-books, which are now approaching their centenary, we find many meat and fish preparations designated as collared. Many of these in newer works are termed ‘ rolled,’ from which the equivalence of collared and rolled may be inferred. But a number of dishes were anciently or are still called collared, there being in the manipulation to which they are subjected no item which could explain the adjective. In these cases we suppose the adjective to have been acquired by the similarity of the collateral treatment preceding or following the rolling. Amongst the collared dishes of distinction are : Collared Eel, Collared Suckingpig, Calf’s-head collccrcd in imitation of Brawn, Collared Pig’s-head, and a dish termed S7nall Collars, made of the feet and ears of large pigs, representing a kind of brawn. What is now mostly called a Roll of Beef, or Collared Beef, is made more often of the flank. When it is not rolled, but kept flat, it is called Pressed Beef.
The Rump of Beef a la Daube is important, as it exhibits the different meanings of two very similar words, the French substantive daube, a stew, and the English verb to daub, meaning to kml (probably in a peculiar rough way differing from the finer larding). Example, Gigot a la Daube = leg of mutton stewed. The French verb dauber has no culinary application. In some books, to daube (with the final e) is used as equivalent to larding, or, as an author has it, inter-