larding, a confusion with a literary expression. The English expression is to daub, without the final c. Thus we have daubed foiuls, which are braised, and not larded (Simpson, p. 337), and we have Fo2ol a la Daube, larded {ibid., p. 338), which is to be finished like Fotol h la Datibe (p. 29), which is not larded. Simpson (p. 76) has, further, Bu^npof Beef a la Dajibe, the recipe for which begins thus : ‘ Trim a rump of beef, take the bone out, daub it ’ {i.e., the rump, not the bone), ‘ and put it into a marinade.’ Here ‘ to daub ’ must mean ‘ to lard.’ On p. 110 ibid., the rump of veal is to be daubed the same as rump of beef. Simpson describes only beef and veal as daubed, fowls, etc., always as larded, from which it is seen that in the beginning of last century daubing was a particular binding of larding, or at all events included it. A vessel for stewing in this particular way is in France termed a daubiere. Beef a la Mode was, and to some extent still is, a speciality of certain popular eating-houses. Dr. Kitchiner in his analysis of 180 works on cookery, could not find one recipe that approximated to anything like an accurate description of the way in which this dish is actually dressed in the d la mode beef-shops. -From these latter, he continues, it was of course impossible to obtain any information. The whole secret seemed to him to be the thickening of the gravy of beef that has been very slowly stewed, and flavoured with bay leaves and allspice. The process of this slow stewing he illustrates by a quotation from the ‘ Tabella Cibaria,’ p. 47 : ‘It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliailes, it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation.’ The lull was no doubt preceded by excitement with delirium, of which ‘ a filet ’ entered the ink of the Tabulist. The success of the ii la 440 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY mode beef, as of nearly all stewed, fried, and roast beef, is due (wherever it is attained by quality) to the production of the true aroma or savour of the beef by (jratinaiion or real braising, tbe intensifying of the savoury ingredient, osmazome, by skilful browning, the production of the essence of gravy, the caramel of meat extract. This not being a question of expenditure of money, but of the application of skill, its solution goes in praise of the cooks in these shops, which are of many qualities, but always supply a great want of the community, namely, that for savoury meals. A. la mode beef is mostly made from the mouse-buttock, or clod of beef (or the blade-bone, the sticking piece, or the breast of veal). The meat is all cut up into pieces of three to four ounces each. Spiced Beef is not a very specific form, but the method of its production is applicable to many pieces. It is eaten cold only. In salting it should be spiced with the tinctures rather than the powders✪ Spiced Beef, as they yield a more equally penetrated product. Bubble and Squeak is mostly made from the remains of boiled salt beef which has served its main purpose on the table. It is essentially a fry, the boiled cabbage which becomes part of it✪ Bubble and Squeak being also fried, and owing to its excess of water causing the squeaking and bubbling.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

larding, a confusion with a literary expression. The English expression is to daub, without the final e. Thus we have daubed fowls, which are braised, and not larded (Simpson, p. 337), and we have Fowl a la Daube, larded {ibid., p. 338), which is to be finished like Fowl a la Daube (p. 29), which is not larded. Simpson (p. 76) has, further, Rump of Beef a la Daube, the recipe for which begins thus : ‘ Trim a rump of beef, take the bone out, daub it ’ {i.e., the rump, not the bone), ‘ and put it into a marinade.’ Here ‘ to daub ’ must mean ‘ to lard.’ On p. 110 ibid., the rump of veal is to be daubed the same as rump of beef. Simpson describes only beef and veal as daubed, fowls, etc., always as larded, from which it is seen that in the beginning of last century daubing was a particular binding of larding, or at all events included it. A vessel for stewing in this particular way is in France termed a daubiere. Beef a la Mode was, and to some extent still is, a speciality of certain popular eating-houses. Dr. Kitchiner in his analysis of 180 works on cookery, could not find one recipe that approximated to anything like an accurate description of the way in which this dish is actually dressed in the d la mode beef-shops. -From these latter, he continues, it was of course impossible to obtain any information. The whole secret seemed to him to be the thickening of the gravy of beef that has been very slowly stewed, and flavoured with bay leaves and allspice. The process of this slow stewing he illustrates by a quotation from the ‘ Tabella Cibaria,’ p. 47 : ‘It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliailes, it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation.’ The lull was no doubt preceded by excitement with delirium, of which 'a filet' entered the ink of the Tabulist. The success of the a la mode beef, as of nearly all stewed, fried, and roast beef, is due (wherever it is attained by quality) to the production of the true aroma or savour of the beef by gratination or real braising, the intensifying of the savoury ingredient, osmazome, by skilful browning, the production of the essence of gravy, the caramel of meat extract. This not being a question of expenditure of money, but of the application of skill, its solution goes in praise of the cooks in these shops, which are of many qualities, but always supply a great want of the community, namely, that for savoury meals. A. la mode beef is mostly made from the mouse-buttock, or clod of beef (or the blade-bone, the sticking piece, or the breast of veal). The meat is all cut up into pieces of three to four ounces each. Spiced Beef is not a very specific form, but the method of its production is applicable to many pieces. It is eaten cold only. In salting it should be spiced with the tinctures rather than the powders, as they yield a more equally penetrated product. Bubble and Squeak is mostly made from the remains of boiled salt beef which has served its main purpose on the table. It is essentially a fry, the boiled cabbage which becomes part of it being also fried, and owing to its excess of water causing the squeaking and bubbling.

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