the cook to moisten the braise with a bottle of sherry. Such excessive quantities are almost absurd, but certainly destruc- tive of good cookery. This application of excess of alcoholic liquids apparently pervades the later English culinary publications. It must needs yield bad sauce. Any sauce if too liquid, and not adhering to the morsel, will be of poor taste, and, besides, the bulk of the materials which would make it very tasty are lost by dilution, for they necessarily remain on the plates. The reducing of sauces to the suit- able degree of concentration, viscosity, or adhesiveness is one of the greatest arts of accomplished cooks; on the other hand, it is a manifestation of bad cooking when a sauce, instead of being concentrated, is merely thickened with flour or eggs. Full-tasting sauces must be bound by these agents, for it is in the nature of a sauce (not of a gravy) to be thick and adhesive to the morsel ; but a thick sauce which is deficient in the gustatory elements is a negation of the principles and objects of a sauce, and there- fore tends to diminish the reputation of the cook or the estimation of culinary art. The fillet has received many variations of treatment ; flavoured with aillolis, and served with tomatoes au gratin, it becomes d la Provencale ; garnished with green peas and crayfish tails, it is termed d la Parisienne ; it is supplied with various sauces, such as nivernaise or madeira, poiv- racle or espagnole ; there is the mode d la Bourgeoise, aux concombres, with glaced onions and skiff ed lettuces, with pickles and mixed fruit, etc. The Brisket of Beef, weighing from 9 to 10 lbs., is best salted and boiled ; but is also frequently stewed, and then glaced, and garnished in various ways. The flat bones are to be removed before glacing, or before dishing the piece. The Ribs may be p>artially or entirely boned. Partial boning consists in the removal, by means of the saw and RIBS AND ROUND OF BEEF 437 knife, of the spine bones, and in shortening the ribs on the side farthest from the spine, so as to leave them only about 10 inches in length. When completely honed, the soft parts are rolled, or collared, with the thick part of the meat inside and the flap from the chest wall outside, all being well tied and skewered. Eibs, whether boned or not, may be roasted plain, or salted, or brine-pickled and stewed, or braised in the various ways just considered. A perusal of many recipes has in the case of these preparations also convinced us that the materials include an excess of loine, half a bottle of madeira being generally the prescribed minimum. The name of the Aitch-honc of Beef is spelt in many ways, and the right mode of spelling it appears so difficult to find that Dr. Kitchiner avoided the decision by writing H-bone. In Mrs. Mason's ‘ Ladies’ Assistant ’ it was called Haunch-hone; in ‘Domestic Management,’ Aitch-hone ; in Eeynolds’ ‘Cookery,’ Ische-hone ; in Henderson’s ‘Cookery,’ Edge-hone ; in Mrs. Lydia Fisher’s ‘ Prudent Housewife,’ Ac/i-6o?ie; in Mrs. Mclver’s' Cookery,’ Kitchiner 1 had also seen it spelled Each-hone and Ridge-hone, and heard i. it called Natch-hone. Most London butchers spell it Aitch- ' hone, but we are inclined to believe Eeynolds’ Ische-hone I might be correct, as being the Anglicized form of Ischiadic i hone, the hip-bone. As in the case of ribs, the meat bears > the name of the bone to which it is attached.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

the cook to moisten the braise with a bottle of sherry. Such excessive quantities are almost absurd, but certainly destructive of good cookery. This application of excess of alcoholic liquids apparently pervades the later English culinary publications. It must needs yield bad sauce. Any sauce if too liquid, and not adhering to the morsel, will be of poor taste, and, besides, the bulk of the materials which would make it very tasty are lost by dilution, for they necessarily remain on the plates. The reducing of sauces to the suitable degree of concentration, viscosity, or adhesiveness is one of the greatest arts of accomplished cooks; on the other hand, it is a manifestation of bad cooking when a sauce, instead of being concentrated, is merely thickened with flour or eggs. Full-tasting sauces must be bound by these agents, for it is in the nature of a sauce (not of a gravy) to be thick and adhesive to the morsel ; but a thick sauce which is deficient in the gustatory elements is a negation of the principles and objects of a sauce, and therefore tends to diminish the reputation of the cook or the estimation of culinary art. The fillet has received many variations of treatment ; flavoured with aillolis, and served with tomatoes au gratin, it becomes d la Provencale ; garnished with green peas and crayfish tails, it is termed d la Parisienne ; it is supplied with various sauces, such as nivernaise or madeira, poivracle or espagnole ; there is the mode d la Bourgeoise, aux concombres, with glaced onions and skiff ed lettuces, with pickles and mixed fruit, etc. The Brisket of Beef, weighing from 9 to 10 lbs., is best salted and boiled ; but is also frequently stewed, and then glaced, and garnished in various ways. The flat bones are to be removed before glacing, or before dishing the piece. The Ribs may be p>artially or entirely boned. Partial boning consists in the removal, by means of the saw and RIBS AND ROUND OF BEEF knife, of the spine bones, and in shortening the ribs on the side farthest from the spine, so as to leave them only about 10 inches in length. When completely boned, the soft parts are rolled, or collared, with the thick part of the meat inside and the flap from the chest wall outside, all being well tied and skewered. Eibs, whether boned or not, may be roasted plain, or salted, or brine-pickled and stewed, or braised in the various ways just considered. A perusal of many recipes has in the case of these preparations also convinced us that the materials include an excess of wine, half a bottle of madeira being generally the prescribed minimum. The name of the Aitch-honc of Beef is spelt in many ways, and the right mode of spelling it appears so difficult to find that Dr. Kitchiner avoided the decision by writing H-bone. In Mrs. Mason's ‘ Ladies’ Assistant ’ it was called Haunch-hone; in ‘Domestic Management,’ Aitch-hone ; in Eeynolds’ ‘Cookery,’ Ische-hone ; in Henderson's 'Cookery,' Edge-bone ; in Mrs. Lydia Fisher's ' Prudent Housewife,' Ach-bone; in Mrs. Mclver’s' Cookery,’ Kitchiner had also seen it spelled Each-bone and Ridge-bone, and heard it called Natch-bone. Most London butchers spell it Aitch-bone, but we are inclined to believe Reynolds' Ische-bone I might be correct, as being the Anglicized form of Ischiadic i hone, the hip-bone. As in the case of ribs, the meat bears > the name of the bone to which it is attached.

The spirit of cookery