PiiNes of Peas admit of great variation, according to whether they are produced from dry yelloio, or green spht, or green or fresh peas. Lentils, haricot beans, and other leguminous seeds are managed like peas. In Russia and Germanj'^ Pur^e of Haricot Beans, particularly of the lai’go white climbing variety, is a favourite dish with a great proportion of the population. It is eaten as a garnish to an entremets made from the green goods of the same bean or of scarlet runners, preserved in salt and subjected to fermen- tation like sauer-kraut. The sugar contained in the beans is gohaseomannite, identical with sugar found in flesh and brain-tissue called inosite. The acid developed by its fer- mentation in the presence of salt is lactic acid, the same as that present in sour milk or in hung meat. Puree of Tomatoes requires either evaporation of the excess of water from the juice, or the addition of a thicken- ing roux. Puree of Apples is well known in this country under the name of apple sauce. The apples used in its production should be sour, such as Wellingtons ; mild or sweet apples produce a Hat puree. Apples have this advantage in cook- ing, that they fall to pulp completely with moderate stirring, and do not require to be rubbed through a tammy ; but such passing makes the pur6e more smooth, and distributes the sugar and spice✪ Puree of Apples which have to be added in an even manner. Almonds and other nuts, including the Indian one known as Promotion-nut, make good purges. Of the ground-nut authors speak hypothetically, without apparently having put it to practical use, 310 THE SPIRIT OF COO II FRY Purdes of Cucumber, Pumpkin ami Ver/etahla Marrow, or Gourd, are excellent preparations, provided their water be condensed and they be made savoury by coulis. White and creamy dressings are less attractive. The puree of the edible large pumpkin has a fine golden or orange colour ; it is much used in France. The pulp contains much of the tender cellulose which is digestible. Purde of French (green) Beans is a passable form for green beans which have become stringy ; applied to tender pods it seems a superfluity, a waste. Its colour may be improved by the addition of spinach-extract. Of the Purees of Boots cc7icl Tubers, that of the Four Boots so called, or a la Croissy, consists of onions (which are bulbs j, and three true roots, namely carrots, turnips, and paisnips. They must be stewed in coulis, and not boiled in water. The distinction between a puree properly so called, to be used as, or in connection with, an entree, and a puree intended to serve as an ingredient of a soup, is not very rigidly upheld, and has perhaps never been discussed. A perusal of the list of purees does, however, yield evidence that some of them are used as entremets only in the un- diluted state, while others are used exclusively in so^ij^s. To these latter belongs the Puree of Carrots, which is not used as an independent dish. The carrots must be braised in savoury coulis✪ Puree of Carrots. Purde of Turnips is used as an independent dish. It may be prepared in two forms, ivhite and broirn ; the latter is less digestible. Some cooks add breadcrumb or panada to this puree to restore consistency after addition of the savoury sauce✪ Puree of Turnips.

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PiiNes of Peas admit of great variation, according to whether they are produced from dry yelloio, or green spht, or green or fresh peas. Lentils, haricot beans, and other leguminous seeds are managed like peas. In Russia and Germanj'^ Pur^e of Haricot Beans, particularly of the lai’go white climbing variety, is a favourite dish with a great proportion of the population. It is eaten as a garnish to an entremets made from the green goods of the same bean or of scarlet runners, preserved in salt and subjected to fermen- tation like sauer-kraut. The sugar contained in the beans is gohaseomannite, identical with sugar found in flesh and brain-tissue called inosite. The acid developed by its fer- mentation in the presence of salt is lactic acid, the same as that present in sour milk or in hung meat. Puree of Tomatoes requires either evaporation of the excess of water from the juice, or the addition of a thicken- ing roux. Puree of Apples is well known in this country under the name of apple sauce. The apples used in its production should be sour, such as Wellingtons ; mild or sweet apples produce a Hat puree. Apples have this advantage in cook- ing, that they fall to pulp completely with moderate stirring, and do not require to be rubbed through a tammy ; but such passing makes the pur6e more smooth, and distributes the sugar and spice which have to be added in an even manner. Almonds and other nuts, including the Indian one known as Promotion-nut, make good purges. Of the ground-nut authors speak hypothetically, without apparently having put it to practical use, 310 THE SPIRIT OF COO II FRY Purdes of Cucumber, Pumpkin ami Ver/etahla Marrow, or Gourd, are excellent preparations, provided their water be condensed and they be made savoury by coulis. White and creamy dressings are less attractive. The puree of the edible large pumpkin has a fine golden or orange colour ; it is much used in France. The pulp contains much of the tender cellulose which is digestible. Purde of French (green) Beans is a passable form for green beans which have become stringy ; applied to tender pods it seems a superfluity, a waste. Its colour may be improved by the addition of spinach-extract. Of the Purees of Boots cc7icl Tubers, that of the Four Boots so called, or a la Croissy, consists of onions (which are bulbs j, and three true roots, namely carrots, turnips, and paisnips. They must be stewed in coulis, and not boiled in water. The distinction between a puree properly so called, to be used as, or in connection with, an entree, and a puree intended to serve as an ingredient of a soup, is not very rigidly upheld, and has perhaps never been discussed. A perusal of the list of purees does, however, yield evidence that some of them are used as entremets only in the un- diluted state, while others are used exclusively in so^ij^s. To these latter belongs the Puree of Carrots, which is not used as an independent dish. The carrots must be braised in savoury coulis. Purde of Turnips is used as an independent dish. It may be prepared in two forms, ivhite and broirn ; the latter is less digestible. Some cooks add breadcrumb or panada to this puree to restore consistency after addition of the savoury sauce.

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