The Purdes of Celeriac and Parsnip are best dressed with
espagnole ; those of Topuiambur or Jerusalem Artichoke have
a fine flavour which should not be overtoned by additions.
Purdes of Potatoes are not quite congruent with mashed
potatoes, but have to be kept a trifle thinner.
Amongst the Purdes of Bulbs, that of onions takes the first
]HIKf:ES OF VEGE'FABLES
311
place. Like most dishes with prevalence of onions, it passes
in France under the cognomen a la Souhise. It can be
made in two varieties — one white, the other brown. For
both the sliced onions should be parboiled in water and
pressed in a cloth, to make them milder. The puree from
red onions, called Bretonne, is finished with espagnole.
Pur6e of Leek is to be coloured with spinach-green.
Of the Purges of Leaves, that of spinach (or sjoinage) is the
lion. It requires butter, some sorrel, and savoury coulis.
Piirde of Sorrel is too acid to be used in any other form
than as sauce, or as an addition to spinach. The acid
principle is binoxalate of potash (salt of sorrel), the same as
in the leaf-stalks of rhubarb.
Endive yields a mild puree to be dressed in bechamel or
veloute.
Purde of Celery also is very mild, to some palates flat.
Of the Purdes made from Sprouts, those of Asparagus, Hops,
Scakale, Bnissel-sprouis, are the most conspicuous. To the
Purees of Stalks and Inflorescences belong those of Cauliflower
and Artichokes. The last preparations of this kind which
we have to mention are those of Truffles and Mushrooms..
On all these products a great amount of ingenuity has
been bestowed, which only intimates are able to appreciate.
It is always necessary carefully to distinguish products
v/hich are advantageously made into a puree, and those
which may be made so for occasions, from those which
ought not to be so treated.
CHAPTER XXV.
CULINARY ESSENCES AND SAVOURY PREPARATIONS
OF BUTTER.
The chief amongst the essences is Proust’s Essence or Extract
of Meat, already fully discussed in earlier chapters. Ftom
almost every kind of meat a special essence might be made
312
THE SPIRIT OF COOK FRY
according to the method employed iu the preparation of
those of beef and mutton. But as the materials are less
plentiful, stock essences from other kinds of meat are very
rarely if at all made. Ficmets are essences containing
certain specified flavours, from residual parts of animals, c.r/.,
from carcases of birds from which the fillets have been cut.
With regard to such fumets and to all essences of animal
parts, remember that meat alone gives any extract worthy
of the name of essence, and a pound of meat furnishes not
more than about half an ounce, with which a pint of good
strong broth can be produced. Therefore a gravy from a
carcase should not be more in weight than the meat yet
attached to the bones when they are chopped. Bone and
inner organs contribute next to nothing to any extract made
from carcases.
Some cooks apply the name of fumet only to extracts
made from game, pheasants, woodcocks, partridges, and
from larks, blackbirds, leverets, and rabbits. This is a
matter of mere convention, and there is no reason why an
essence of fowl should not be called a fumet of fowl ; any-
how, essences are made in exactly the same manner as
fumets.
Page 199
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The Purdes of Celeriac and Parsnip are best dressed with espagnole ; those of Topuiambur or Jerusalem Artichoke have a fine flavour which should not be overtoned by additions. Purdes of Potatoes are not quite congruent with mashed potatoes, but have to be kept a trifle thinner.
Amongst the Purdes of Bulbs, that of onions takes the first
PUREES OF VEGETABLES
place. Like most dishes with prevalence of onions, it passes in France under the cognomen a la Souhise. It can be made in two varieties — one white, the other brown. For both the sliced onions should be parboiled in water and pressed in a cloth, to make them milder. The puree from red onions, called Bretonne, is finished with espagnole.
Pur6e of Leek is to be coloured with spinach-green.
Of the Purges of Leaves, that of spinach (or épinage) is the lion. It requires butter, some sorrel, and savoury coulis. Piirde of Sorrel is too acid to be used in any other form than as sauce, or as an addition to spinach. The acid principle is binoxalate of potash (salt of sorrel), the same as in the leaf-stalks of rhubarb.
Endive yields a mild puree to be dressed in bechamel or veloute.
Purde of Celery also is very mild, to some palates flat.
Of the Purdes made from Sprouts, those of Asparagus, Hops, Sea-kale, Brussel-sprouts, are the most conspicuous. To the Purees of Stalks and Inflorescences belong those of Cauliflower and Artichokes. The last preparations of this kind which we have to mention are those of Truffles and Mushrooms.. On all these products a great amount of ingenuity has been bestowed, which only intimates are able to appreciate. It is always necessary carefully to distinguish products v/hich are advantageously made into a puree, and those which may be made so for occasions, from those which ought not to be so treated.
CHAPTER XXV.
CULINARY ESSENCES AND SAVOURY PREPARATIONS
OF BUTTER.
The chief amongst the essences is Proust’s Essence or Extract of Meat, already fully discussed in earlier chapters. Ftom almost every kind of meat a special essence might be made
according to the method employed iu the preparation of those of beef and mutton. But as the materials are less plentiful, stock essences from other kinds of meat are very rarely if at all made. Ficmets are essences containing certain specified flavours, from residual parts of animals, c.r/., from carcases of birds from which the fillets have been cut. With regard to such fumets and to all essences of animal parts, remember that meat alone gives any extract worthy of the name of essence, and a pound of meat furnishes not more than about half an ounce, with which a pint of good strong broth can be produced. Therefore a gravy from a carcase should not be more in weight than the meat yet attached to the bones when they are chopped. Bone and inner organs contribute next to nothing to any extract made from carcases.
Some cooks apply the name of fumet only to extracts made from game, pheasants, woodcocks, partridges, and from larks, blackbirds, leverets, and rabbits. This is a matter of mere convention, and there is no reason why an essence of fowl should not be called a fumet of fowl ; anyhow, essences are made in exactly the same manner as fumets.