The spirit of cookery

The tougher materials having been minced, can be prepared for passing the sieve only by strong pounding. This is best effected if the quantities taken are not too large ; mere trituration is sufficient in the case of leguminous seeds, but coherent materials require to be comminuted by strong blows of the pestle. Then place the sieve over a large bowl -or dish, so that it stands entirely within it-; put the pulp on the sieve and triturate it with a wooden spoon. Some cooks from time to time invert the sieve, and scrape off the portion of the puree which adheres to the under side ; but this seems not in any way mechanically useful, but a natural impatience to estimate the increase of the result of the work done. Eemove the remainder from the top, to pound it again if necessary, and wash the sieve in hot water, to clear the meshes of any fixed fibres. We have found a stiff circular disc-like brush, with a central perpendicular handle, an excellent substitute for the spoon, and 30S invaluable for clearing the meshes of fibres. Such a brush must, however, be kept very clean and free from taste. The mere application of inessure by means of the spoon will not so much cause the puree to pass, as the hair or wire of the sieve to bulge downwards, and then the gaps which form will allow crude parts to pass, and spoil the rest of the operation. Where, as in the case of soups, there is plenty of fluid at disposal, you may repeatedly use that which has passed by pouring it back on the sieve ; on the other hand, the drier the puree, the more rubbing does it require to get it through the tamis. At last there remains a portion of material on the sieve which has to be rejected, and in this respect also the cook has to exercise judgment. He must cease triturating when the desirable particles have passed, and before any undesirable ones are sufficiently ground down to pass through the tammy. Amongst the Purdcs of Fruit and Seeds, that of Chestnuts is the most perfect and desirable. In cookery we have to range chestnuts with leguminous seeds, although they differ widely from them in a botanical sense. They are the fruit of the tree which was for some time ranged with the oaks, and called by Linné Fagus castanea ; but it was again separated from the oak and called Castanea vesca. The English name ‘ chestnuts’ is a slightly corrupted translation of the old Latin name used, e.g., by Virgil, of Castaneiv nuces. This name is merely the result of the accident that many of these nuts were imported into Italy from Castana in Thessaly. This has led to the surmise that the tree w^as indigenous in Thessaly, but this is doubtful. The tree is certainly indigenous to Europe — at least, was not brought to it from other parts within historical times, and does not prosper in other continents except under cultivation. It thus differs as regards origin and history from the horsechestnut, Aesculus hippocastanum, which was imported into Europe from India about three centuries ago. [illustration: PUREES OF SEEDS AND FRUIT] rnnle of Chestnuts is appropriate for use in the form of SOU]), as well as of sauce, to accompany white entries, and especially the turkey. For the production of a brown puree the chestnuts have to be carefully roasted, so as to become caramelized.