All these preparations are objects of high culinary art, but obey the general principles which we have enunciated in previous chapters. Cock-a-leeky, mulligatunny, and hare ] soup are highly characteristic dishes, and, like turtle, have a history. They have been modified by the change of taste i which is ever going on. Thus, the flesh of the turtle, once j considered the main object of magiric art, does not appear to be appreciated or, indeed, eaten by anybody. But the other preparations will long survive, and turtle soup will vanish only with the extermination of the animals which yield the material for its production. CHAPTEE XV. SOUPS REPEESENTING EXPANDED RAGOIJTS, OR IMMERSED (ENSOUPED) ENTREES. The reason for which the dishes falling under this division are frequently called soups is probably the circumstance that they can be, and mostly are, eaten with a spoon. It j depends upon the addition of a little more or less gravy j BOUILLABAISSE, RAVIOLI 205 whether they are to represent an entr4e or a soup. Two of them, Bouillabaisse and Eavioli, in the countries in which they are at home, are served as entrees as well as in the form of soups, and the former bears the name of Provenqale Soup. Bouillabaisse is a mixture of various sorts of fish, fried and braised in olive-oil and wine, with salt and spices, and made savoury by a roussi, i.e., flour fried in oil and flavoured with onions. It is essential to the highest form of the bouillabaisse that it should be compounded with the chops of as many varieties of fish as can be got. Some spell Bouilli (o baisse, but give no motive. Bouillabaisse of Marseille* is composed of chops of eel, whiting, gurnet, turbot, sole, and other fish. Make a roux with oil in the ordinary way, and fry the fish therein ; then add standard broth✪ Bouillabaisse ; boil for half an hour, then simmer until the fish be done. Pour the bouillon over fried bread in a tureen ; serve the fish in a separate dish. Potage a la Bouride et d I’Aillolisj is the Proven9ale form of bouillabaisse. The fish, bouride, is boiled with garlic, spices, wine, and bouillon. To this is added the aillolis or pomade, or mayonnaise made of a clove of garlic pounded with salt, worked into an emulsion with yolks and oil. The boiled fish is further fried until it assumes colour. Bouillon and fish are served separately. This dish is too character- istically flavoured to be acceptable out of Proven9e. Bouillabaisse d la Nimoise. — The Nimes cooks make this dish by boiling the fish with fish-broth ; the fishes they use are rascanes, moraines, St. Pierres, fagels, hups merlans. The broth is made into sauce, and not served as soup ; it is thickened with the pur6e of the liver of a boudroie, well boiled in broth, and sustained by a liaison of yolks. The * According to M. Roubion, restaurateur at Marseilles, D.D., 852. Cf. Gouffe, 392. t Recipe by Roubion, D.D., 853. Bouillahaisae d la Nimoise, ibid.; roussi of Lucca oil, R., 379. 2o6 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY dish is, therefore, a ragout only, and not used as a soup in the locality.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

All these preparations are objects of high culinary art, but obey the general principles which we have enunciated in previous chapters. Cock-a-leeky, mulligatunny, and hare soup are highly characteristic dishes, and, like turtle, have a history. They have been modified by the change of taste i which is ever going on. Thus, the flesh of the turtle, once j considered the main object of magiric art, does not appear to be appreciated or, indeed, eaten by anybody. But the other preparations will long survive, and turtle soup will vanish only with the extermination of the animals which yield the material for its production. CHAPTER XV. SOUPS REPRESENTING EXPANDED RAGOUTS, OR IMMERSED (ENSOUPED) ENTREES. The reason for which the dishes falling under this division are frequently called soups is probably the circumstance that they can be, and mostly are, eaten with a spoon. It j depends upon the addition of a little more or less gravy j BOUILLABAISSE, RAVIOLI whether they are to represent an entr4e or a soup. Two of them, Bouillabaisse and Ravioli, in the countries in which they are at home, are served as entrees as well as in the form of soups, and the former bears the name of Provenqale Soup. Bouillabaisse is a mixture of various sorts of fish, fried and braised in olive-oil and wine, with salt and spices, and made savoury by a roussi, i.e., flour fried in oil and flavoured with onions. It is essential to the highest form of the bouillabaisse that it should be compounded with the chops of as many varieties of fish as can be got. Some spell Bouillabaisse, but give no motive. Bouillabaisse of Marseille* is composed of chops of eel, whiting, gurnet, turbot, sole, and other fish. Make a roux with oil in the ordinary way, and fry the fish therein ; then add standard broth ; boil for half an hour, then simmer until the fish be done. Pour the bouillon over fried bread in a tureen ; serve the fish in a separate dish. Potage a la Bouride et d'Aïllolisj is the Proven9ale form of bouillabaisse. The fish, bouride, is boiled with garlic, spices, wine, and bouillon. To this is added the aillolis or pomade, or mayonnaise made of a clove of garlic pounded with salt, worked into an emulsion with yolks and oil. The boiled fish is further fried until it assumes colour. Bouillon and fish are served separately. This dish is too characteristically flavoured to be acceptable out of Provence. Bouillabaisse a la Nimoise. — The Nimes cooks make this dish by boiling the fish with fish-broth; the fishes they use are rascanes, moraines, St. Pierres, fagels, hups merlans. The broth is made into sauce, and not served as soup ; it is thickened with the puree of the liver of a boudroie, well boiled in broth, and sustained by a liaison of yolks. The * According to M. Roubion, restaurateur at Marseilles, D.D., 852. Cf. Gouffe, 392. t Recipe by Roubion, D.D., 853. Bouillahaisae d la Nimoise, ibid.; roussi of Lucca oil, R., 379. 2o6 dish is, therefore, a ragout only, and not used as a soup in the locality.

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