FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 135 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
There is a number of soups to be made of game when birds and quadrupeds are plentiful. Quails are now brought from Africa by the hundred thousand, and may occasionally be used freely in various forms. The birds, cut in quarters, may be stewed with julienne vegetables and peas pur6e, to HAJ?E SOUP 203 which standard hroth is added. A more elaborate form of Quail Soup* is made with puree of quail’s meat all but the fillets, which are partly minced and partly made into force- meat quenelles, and put in the soup. Snipes, red-legged partridges, grouse,^ and even pheasants, are similarly mal- treated for the production of these artefacts, but practically there are made into these game-puree soups only the cold remains of heads of game which have been on the table as roasts. Some add turnips to the roots, and thereby produce a voluminous vegetable puree, of which game forms only such a percentage as will justify the name. Some add also ! a binding of eggs to the broth ; others order an addition of ; cream — all expedients intended to overtone the weakness of 1 the broth. Hare Soup is a semi-clear piorde of hare in standard broth. It is semi-clear because the puree is in clouds, and settles quickly when the soup is at rest, leaving the soup clear. This form has the finest taste, but it may be bound with a roux, and become thick. Hare soup is an English dish ; it is not used on the Continent, and most French cookery- books contain no recipe for its production.! Cut the hare into convenient pieces, and fry them, with 2 oz. of butter, sliced lean ham, shallots, onion, mace, thyme, and bay-leaf, to a brown colour ; add 2 quarts of standard broth, and boil j for an hour and a quarter ; then strain the broth from the hare, pick the meat off the bones, comminute and pound it thoroughly (with a little boiled rice if the soup is to be thick) ; then dilute the paste with broth and pass it through * Quail soup is by some rrench writers termed d la Faberl, after Pfere Fabert, an ecclesiastic who travelled annually to the Provence in the Bee- fi(jue season. Cf. F., 304. The quail purie is sometimes mistermed bisque— e.g., F., 328. t Slices of grouse in grouse soup have been inappropriately called ‘ scollops.’ _ t Gouff^ loc. cit., p. 397, has a recipe, and, as it is an English national dish, properly terms it ‘d I'Anglaise.’ He prescribes the liaison of blood of the hare. This liaison the Germans practise on the ragoOt of hare, or jugged hare. 204 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY a tammy ; unite the rest of the broth with the puree, point with a little wine and some tincture of cayenneHare Soup. Variations of Hare Soiq) consist mainly in additions, such as a little currant- jelly or minced fillets of hare, or a liaison effected with the blood of the hare. Then there is & Leveret Puree Soup, with mince of the fillets and quenelles ; Leveret Soup v)ith Kebobs (Kitubabs) ; Babbit Soup, being a purde of rabbit in broth, prepared as a white soup ; Babbit Soup with custard, the latter coloured with spinach-green, and flavoured with Parma cheese and game glaze ; Babbit Soup with Barley Puree and Quenelles, and Compound Babbit Soup, being puree of fillets, with quenelles of fillets in broth thickened with veloute sauce. The leveret and rabbit soups are mere generalizations from hare soup.