FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 137 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Ravioli, or Babioles, are an Italian dish, consisting of little shells or capsules of thin nouilles paste in which a savoury meat farce is enclosed. They are boiled in broth, and served with brown gravy, as an entree, particularly to open a dejeuner without soup, as is practised in Italy. When they are made small, and immersed in a sufficiency of broth, they pass as quenelles in Ravioli sotip {Raviolis a la Napolitaine*). The preparation of the shells is given under ‘Nouilles.’ The farce is prepared from fowl, game, veal, etc. ; add thereto some fresh-made curd of milk and some Parma cheese, also some spinach, parboiled, spices an salt, and bind with yolk of eggRavioli a la Napolitaine. The farce is enclosed in pieces of paste of about 4 inches surface each, then warmed on a baking-tin in the oven, immersed in boiling broth — to be quickly scalded, so that the broth cannot affect the farce — boiled for from five to fifteen minutes, according to size, and removed and drained. Some gratinate the ravioli, with Parma cheese, and butter poured over it. This treat- ment we cannot, from experience, approve of ; the cheese becomes adhesive, and spoils the unity of the taste of the farce. A concentrated hroivn gravy is the best sauce to go with ravioli as entree. If they are to be eaten as soup send a tureen of clear gravy with them. Ox-kidney Soup is really an expanded ragout. Fowl' s-liver Soup {Potage h la Camerani), — The recipe for this soup was given by Grimod de la Eeyniere to his circle of convives, but otherwise kept secret. Thus it became the object of the fable that its preparation in 1806 had cost three louis d’or for each diner or person at table. This romance was destroyed by Baron Brisse, who gave a copy of the recipe to Dumas in a letter, in which this * Cf. F., 375 ; Gouflfe, p. 372. For soup only, a poor recipe. Of. D.D., 922. SOUP OF GIBLETS, HEADS AND TAILS IGTl enthusiastic gastronomer says : ‘ Je vais faire entrer en petite cuisine et vulgariser I’illustre potage celdbre par tant de poetes.’ Let us add that Camerani was manager (semainier perpetuel) of the Gom4die Italienne at Paris, and an appreciator of good cookery. As for the poetry , if it be an effect of the soup, the latter would be misjudged by its quality. Standard broth and all available vegetables, etc., form the liquid. To this are added, just before it is done, folds’ livers, one for each person, finely minced, or as puree, and on placing in the tureen, some ready-boiled macaroni and Parmesan cheeseFowl's-liver Soup (Potage a la Camerani). When the concentrated ingredients are placed in layers and gratinated on the surface, the dish becomes a ragout, and ceases to be a soup in the modern sense. According to some French enthusiasts, ‘ a single spoonful will lap the palate in Elysium ; and while one drop of it remains on the tongue, each other sense is eclipsed by voluptuous thrilling of the lingual nerve.’* CHAPTEE XVI. SOUPS MADE FOR THE UTILIZATION OF GIBLETS, SKELETONS, HEADS AND TAILS.