FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 134 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Kari or Ctirry-Poivder for flavouring Mulligatunny* — Such powders can be bought ready-made, but can also be compounded as follows : Take 4 oz. of pimento, 3 oz. of curcuma {terra merita, i.e., turmeric), | oz. of black pepper, a nutmeg, and a scruple of ginger ; powder all very fine, and mix carefully. This powder may be added to any ragout, composed of mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, sliced truffles, quenelles, sliced hard yolks of eggs, slices of sweet- I bread, cock’s-combs, brains and sweetbread of lambs, and other ingredients, such as fish and meat. Another more compound list of spices for flavouring mulligatunny is the following : 2 oz. of coriander-seed, 1 oz. of cummilv-seed, 1 oz. of femigreek or meethee, ^ oz. of nmstard-seed, two cloves of garlic, a dozen black g^eppercorns, and four leaves of ktirreeapliol, or kodia-neem {karay-pauk). Put all into a muslin bag, without pounding or braising, boil with the soup, and remove as soon as the flavour is satisfactory. . It is preferable to make a tincture or alcoholic solution of j either of these collections of spices, as described above in ! the chapter on tinctures of spices in general, and apply the solution in small quantities to the soup. Thus the difficulty of making turbid what should be a clear soup is •i avoided; the amount of spiciness to be imparted to the ! soup is entirely in the hands of the cook. In the prepara- tion of the broth use turnips sparingly, leeks freely ; also a few sprigs of thyme or marjoram. Kari Soiip, or Mulligatunny by evolution from Gu,rry, is commonly prepared with tendons of veal (calf’s foot), dis- membered foiol, loarren rabbits, and slices of eel, and given * Ex ‘The Indian Cook,’ ex ‘Wyvern,’ loc, cit., p. aiO. 202 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY with steamed rice. As it is practically made by expansion of the ragout called Indian curry (kari), we lead by a recipe for this. Indian Gurry [Kari), or BagoiU. — Cut a fowl to pieces as for a fricassee ; put the pieces into a casserole, together with any other meat which you may choose, including some fresh or salt pork, a symphony of roots and a bouquet of herbs, and good broth. Boil for half an hour, and strain on the colander. In a stewpan heat 125 grm. of lard ; fry in it three shredded onions, some carrots and celery ; remove the fried onions, and place them in some of the meat- broth. Fry the pieces of fowl in the lard, and allow them to become yellow ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour and make a roux ; dilute with the bouillon from the fowl and the por- tion which contains the onions, now to be removed ; boil up, and add kari-powder to tasteIndian Curry (Kari), cautiously, as the pimento is very hot [piment enrage of the French ; long Anglice). To avoid this excess of heat and improve the flavour, some fry the spices with the onions, and thus efiect a better amalgamation ; it is still better to use the tincture. This ragoiU, when diluted with the necessary amount of broth, becomes a soup, and this is the archetype of mulliga- tunny. Let the soup or the ragout be served with steamed or boiled Patna or Carolina rice. Some add apples, shallots, leek, and a few cardamom seeds to the ragout. We have a number of Indian recipes for curry which differ only in unimportant details. All insist on the necessity of having a savoury coulis as basis. It is the neglect of this essential demand which has brought curries and curry soups into dis- credit.