The spirit of cookery

The English, applying their ideas of further development to this composition, added other condiments, gave it a basis of broth with chicken, mutton, etc., thickened the liquid with flour and butter, and by degrees succeeded in effecting the evolution of a decidedly characteristic and savoury soup. The best mulligatunny is nowadays obtained in England, where it is presented in the form of a clear as well as in that of a thick variety. Some think the former, from an artistic point of view, the better one, without, however, professing to under-rate the thick. They believe the superiority of the English mulligatunny over that commonly prepared in India to be due to the foundation of broth, a point which most Indian cooks leave out of consideration. Recipe for Mulligatunny, — Cut up a large sweet onion into thin discs, and fry them in 2 oz. of butter until they be about to turn yellow. Stir in three tablespoonfuls of Barrie’s Madras Mulligatunny Paste, adding sufficient broth to bring the mixture to the consistency of mayonnaise. Add a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly and a few drops of lemon-juice. Having stirred this mixture well, put in a dessertspoonful of Madras chutney, and add standard broth enough to produce about three pints of soup. Allow this to simmer for a quarter of an hour to extract the various flavours of the ingredients; pound 4 oz. of sweet almonds in a mortar with a little milk, not exceeding a breakfastcupful. When the almonds by standing have been extracted, strain their milk into the soup, and stop the simmering. Pass the whole liquid through a tin strainer into a bowl, to remove any lumps of onion, chutney, etc. Add a roux or thickening of 2 oz. of butter and 2 oz. of flour ; heat to the boiling-point, and when pouring the soup into the tureen, add either some cream or yolk of egg. For the milk of almonds milk of cocoanut may be substituted, but the addition of either the one or the other of these vegetable emulsions is necessary to obtain a soft, creamy, well-flavoured, thick mulligatunny. Some details concerning the use and preparation of mulligatunny may here follow. When mulligatunny was transformed into a soup and ceased to be a sauce, the custom to eat boiled rice with or in it was, nevertheless, preserved. Boiled fowl or boiled mutton, carved into service-slices, was also immersed. Those who object to these additions, as making the soup too heavy, may omit them. If you desire to produce clear mulligatunny soup, avoid communicating the flavour with ready-made curry-powder or paste in which there is a certain quantity of turmeric. Pounded coriander-seed, too, is oily, and would probably cause some turbidity. For these reasons put the flavouring ingredients into a muslin bag, hang this in the soup-kettle with the vegetables, and remove it as soon as CURRY OR KARI SOUP the broth is sufficiently impregnated with the spices. The pepperiness may be imparted with a few drops of tabasco as a finishing touch, or of chilli vinegar if tabasco be unobtainable.