The soups made with puree from the flesh of the animals
named in the title of this chapter are uniformly suspensions
of purees in savoury broth. As the mode of making purees
is well known, and the production of savoury broths no less
well, it is not necessary to give details concerning the pre-
paration of these soups. The most frequently treated are
198
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
Chichen Purde Sou2)s, of which also a number of variations
are quoted ; but these latter are of no general import. The
compound soups of purde of fowl include mere additions, e.g.,
of purde of rice, the same with asparagus-heads added, the
same with pearl barley and quenelles of fowl, the same with
piirde of almonds. Names given to some of these compounds,
such as Printaniere, Princesse, or Cdlestine, have no motive,
and convey no meaning.
A French soup belonging to this category is chiffonade,
which in English we shall define as minced chichen soup.
Chiffon means a rag, also a hunch, broken piece of bread.
Possibly these meanings point to a connection between
soup and name. In France the soup is called chiffonade
simply, without the word ‘ potage ’ or ‘ soup ’ being employed
in connection with it. This seems to indicate that the pre-
paration was formerly more than a mere soup, probably a
compound ragout, or one of those substantial soups which
had to be eaten in two stages — the liquid part with a spoon,
and the solid part from the same plate, with knife and fork.
This soup is somewhat analogous to cock-a-leeky.
Cock-a-leeky is a soup ragout of fowl, strongly flavoured
with leek. The cock is not de riguetcr, but may be replaced
by capon or fowl.* The fowls are boiled first and cut up
in joints ; their broth is then worked up into savoury soup,
with blond of veal, or coulis, or standard broth. In this
the white parts of leeks, six to each fowl, previously par-
boiled, to diminish their potency, are placed and boiled to
point ; lastly, the carved fowls are added, and the whole is
just boiled up once more.
Mulligatunny , or Indian Kari {or Gurry), Soup, also called
Mulligataiony , Mtillagata^ony , Potage de Kari,^ is a spiced
or curried soup of hashed chicken and rice. It was originally
* F., 269, spells Cocky Lceky. Cord. Bleu omits cock and fowl, and
confines the material to giblets, objects hardly worth cooking, not worth
buying.
t For derivation, cf. ‘ Wyvern,’ toe. cit., p. 310.
MULLIGATUNNY SOUP
199
peculiar to Southern India, and derives its name from the
Tamil words violegoo (pepper) and ticnnee (water). In its
simple form as partaken of by the poorer natives of
Madras, it is, as its name indicates, a pepper-water used
as a sauce, which the Madras cook makes as follows :
He pounds together a dessertspoonful of tamarinds, six
red chillies, six cloves of garlic, a tablespoonful of mustard-
seed, a saltspoonful of fenugreek-seed, twelve black pepper-
corns, a teaspoonful of salt, and six leaves of karay-pauTc.
When the ingredients have been worked to a paste, he adds
a pint of water, and boils the mixture for a quarter of an
hour. Concurrently he cuts up two small onions, puts
them into a chatty, and fries them in a dessertspoonful of
gee till they begin to turn brown ; now he strains the
pepper-water into the chatty, and cooks the mixture for
five minutes, after which it is ready. This pepper-water is
used as a mere sauce, for it is eaten with large quantities
of rice.✪ Mulligatunny Soup
Page 132 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The soups made with puree from the flesh of the animals named in the title of this chapter are uniformly suspensions of purees in savoury broth. As the mode of making purees is well known, and the production of savoury broths no less well, it is not necessary to give details concerning the preparation of these soups. The most frequently treated are
Chicken Purée Soups, of which also a number of variations are quoted ; but these latter are of no general import. The compound soups of purde of fowl include mere additions, e.g., of purée of rice, the same with asparagus-heads added, the same with pearl barley and quenelles of fowl, the same with purée of almonds. Names given to some of these compounds, such as Printaniere, Princesse, or Célestine, have no motive, and convey no meaning.
A French soup belonging to this category is chiffonade, which in English we shall define as minced chicken soup. Chiffon means a rag, also a hunch, broken piece of bread. Possibly these meanings point to a connection between soup and name. In France the soup is called chiffonade simply, without the word ‘ potage ’ or ‘ soup ’ being employed in connection with it. This seems to indicate that the preparation was formerly more than a mere soup, probably a compound ragout, or one of those substantial soups which had to be eaten in two stages — the liquid part with a spoon, and the solid part from the same plate, with knife and fork. This soup is somewhat analogous to cock-a-leeky.
Cock-a-leeky is a soup ragout of fowl, strongly flavoured with leek. The cock is not de rigueur, but may be replaced by capon or fowl.* The fowls are boiled first and cut up in joints ; their broth is then worked up into savoury soup, with blond of veal, or coulis, or standard broth. In this the white parts of leeks, six to each fowl, previously parboiled, to diminish their potency, are placed and boiled to point ; lastly, the carved fowls are added, and the whole is just boiled up once more.
Mulligatunny , or Indian Kari {or Gurry), Soup, also called Mulligataiony , Mullagatawny , Potage de Kari, is a spiced or curried soup of hashed chicken and rice. It was originally
* F., 269, spells Cocky Lceky. Cord. Bleu omits cock and fowl, and confines the material to giblets, objects hardly worth cooking, not worth buying.
t For derivation, cf. ‘ Wyvern,’ toe. cit., p. 310.
MULLIGATUNNY SOUP
peculiar to Southern India, and derives its name from the Tamil words molagoö (pepper) and tinnee (water). In its simple form as partaken of by the poorer natives of Madras, it is, as its name indicates, a pepper-water used as a sauce, which the Madras cook makes as follows : He pounds together a dessertspoonful of tamarinds, six red chillies, six cloves of garlic, a tablespoonful of mustardseed, a saltspoonful of fenugreek-seed, twelve black peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, and six leaves of karay-patta. When the ingredients have been worked to a paste, he adds a pint of water, and boils the mixture for a quarter of an hour. Concurrently he cuts up two small onions, puts them into a chatty, and fries them in a dessertspoonful of gee till they begin to turn brown ; now he strains the pepper-water into the chatty, and cooks the mixture for five minutes, after which it is ready. This pepper-water is used as a mere sauce, for it is eaten with large quantities of rice.
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Mulligatunny Soup