FoodNet

The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

1894

Page 30 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1894. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Fortunately, it is not necessary to attain the skill needful to perform this acrobatic exploit in order to turn out a first-class pancake. In the making of these, as in most other things, experience is the best teacher. The distinction should always be observed 88 FRYING AND '' SAUTE'' ING. between a fritter and a pancake, remembering that tlie one is boiled in fat, while the other is fried — first one side and then the other. When makinsf a number of fritters or small things, it is a great convenience to place them in one of the wire baskets, sold for the purpose, before plunging them in the pan. Omelettes are a ^^race apart," and will be found under the head of ^' Maigre Dishes." They can scarcely be said to be fried, and tlioy certainly are not boiled. CHAPTER YIII. Some Gateaui* anb Compotes, WHILE standing pre-eminent in the o.rfc of pastry-making, the Frencli cook is not great in tlie matter of cakes. A glance at the " Patissier's ^' window will show this directly. Amongst all the appetising array of dainty con- fections the nnmber of cakes may be counted upon one's fingers. And the "bourgeoise mena- gere ^' would never dream of making a loaf of cake, although she has a great appreciation of both plum-cake and plum-pudding ; while her English sister is ever on the look-out for some- thing new to add to her already lengthy list. Here, be it stated, the '^ gateau ^^ is not exactly a '' cake/' it is rather a dessert dish, and as such is most generally used in the country where puddings are little known. Al- though some of them in their fanciful decoration are beyond the scope of the amateur, still a few of them may be fairly well imitated. 80 90 SOME GATEAUX AND COMPOTES. The ^^ Genoise fourree '^ is the foundation of many charming gateaux — the fourree, or filling, being varied at will. The number of eggs needed depends upon the size of the gateau required. The whites and yolks are separated, and both thoroughly beaten; with the yolks a little rose water or orange- flower water is mixed ; pounded sugar and fine dry flour in proportions of a quarter of a pound of each to four eggsGenoise Fourree; the whites are added last of all, and the whole thoroughly beaten, then poured into a well-buttered tin not more than two to three inches in depth, and baked in a quick oven till a delicate brown. For a '^ gateau d'Abricots,'^ this would be split open and apricot preserve spread between ; the whole would then be covered with clear sugar icing, and richly ornamented with candied fruitsGateau d'Abricots. Or sometimes in place of preserve will be found the '^ creme Frangipane ^^ and the icing, or, as a substitute for the icing, caramel would be used. The same foundation is used for a chocolate or coffee cream gateau ; the cream consisting of butter and pounded sugar well beaten together, with the addition of made coffee or chocolate. This being very stiff" is used also for the outside decoration^ and is wreathed into many fantastic SOME gAtEAUX and COMPOTES, 91 forms; tLe outer edge of the gateau being covered witli grated almonds. ^'^Ptite d'Eclair '' is the foundation of quite a distinct kind of gateau.