FoodNet

The profession of cookery, from a French point of view

1894

Page 29 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1894. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
It is really more difiScult to saute to perfec- tion than it is to fry well. In the former case^ the great point to observe is to take care the saute is not too mnch done^ as in that case it will not be eatable. To toss it light and quickly, and remove before it has had time to become tough_, is a safe rule. Potatoes are very frequently dressed in this manner when intended to eat with veal or pork; finely chopped parsley is sprinkled over them just before serving. Cold boiled potatoes are by this means rendered equal to fresh ones. Carrots, turnips, and parsnips, with a variety of beans, are all excellent if so treated. Eggs may be lightly tossed in the saute pan without actually making an omelette of them. Parsley is a great addition to all sautes. A favourite form of using up cold meat by frying is to make " rissoles. ^^ Remains of any meat or poultry, with a few bread-crumbs, herbs and a minced shallot, and a little good sauce to moisten the whole. Eoll out a sheet of paste (puff paste is the best)Rissoles to an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut into squares, place a little of the mince in the middle, fold over securely, and fasten the edges together with white of eg^ : plunge into the pan 86 FRYING AND '' SAUTE"-ING. of boiling fat, let tlicrn cook a few minutes, wlien tliey will swell out and become deliciously crisp and brown. If drained on a sheet of blotting-paper, then garnished with curled parsley, quite a hand- some dish may be obtained at a very small cost. Sweet rissoles may be made the same way, substituting minced apples, bread crumbs, and a little honey for the meat. The " Beignet aux pommes," the really genuine apple fritter, is rather different to the apple fritter of the English cook. The batter is made by mixing a tablespoonful of flour smoothly with a little water, then add- ing a little salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and two beaten whites of eggs. The apples are pared, quartered, and evenly slicedBeignet aux Pommes, then allowed to soak a little while in some sweet wine, with a few drops of lemon- juice. AVhen ready to use them, dip each piece in the batter, and drop into the boiling fat. AVhen cooked and drained, they should be liberally frosted with white sugar. Oranges may be done in this way, also rhubarb cut into short j)ieces. Many little cakes made of dough may be fried in this way, and they are truly delicious. FRYING AND '' SAUTE ''-ING. Sy Where butter or meat fat is difficult to obtain, boiling oil is used for tlie same purposes ; it is an excellent substitute wlien once one has become accustomed to the flavour. In Italy and Spain it is generally preferred to any other fat. French pancakes or " crepes ^^ are dropped into boiling fat; hence the curious shapes they assume: the cause of much merriment at carnival parties. But they are certainly not superior to the genuine English pancake, the shallow frying- pan being eminently suited to this dish, and here at least the English cook can hold her own. It used to be the boast of the old race of Virginian cooks that they could toss a pancake with such accuracy up the mouth of the \nde chimney, that it would turn itself, and come down, like St. Lawrence, ready to have the other side fried.