The real reason — when soup is found to dis-
agree— may generally be traced to its over-
strength. It is not intended to furnish solid
nutriment, but to supply a want felt by most
people for something warm and savoury to
begin the meal with, and it will also be found
to greatly lessen the thirst for drink after-
wards, hence effecting a saving in the wine
cupboard.
Among the poor, a simple nourishing vege-
table soup would be found of great value,
largely dispensing with the, at present, almost
inevitable jng of beer, to which recourse is had
so frequently to ^^ wash down " or make up for
a dinner often far from appetising.
The saving, also, in the consumption of meat
when soup takes the precedence, is no small
argument in its favour.
ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY, 3
Take, for example, tlie ordinary mid-day
meal of tlie Frencli ^^ ouvrier." The soup pot
has been put on the stove at an early hour; it
contains carrots, turnips, potatoes, peas, hari-
cots, leeks, etc., with a " bouquet'' (a variety of
herbs) and sorrel in abundance ; the only thing
of the nature of meat is a small piece of salted
pork, and this, with plenty of water, is left to
boil gently until required, often for several
hours.
The pork is almost dissolved by this time ; if
not, it is cut very small, and returned to the
pot, the contents of which go through the
'^ passoir," or colander. It is well seasoned,
and is then ready to pour into plates; sub-
stantial, satisfying, and with a mighty hunch
of bread, this forms the staple of his meal. If
he be well off, a piece of meat and a salad may
follow this ; but among the poor, a little fruit
is thought quite sufficient.
On Sundaj^s, high days, and festivals, he will
partake of " bouillon "■ — a small piece of beef
from the leg, boiled with the vegetables, but
left clear this time, and the vegetables served
on a separate dish — the meat served after-
wards.
Of course, in different parts of the country
>
4 ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY.
tliis simple menu may vary somewhat^, but in
southern France^ wliere, if anywhere, economy
is to be found in perfection^ it rarely consists
of anything more.
Among the peasants of the Vosges mountains
it is still more simple, their diet, year in, year
out, being mainly made up of potatoes, onions,
and bread ; yet they are a hardy a sinewy race.
The Swiss peasantry also greatly resemble
their French neighbours in their diet, Avith the
exception that they eat rather more meat — the
colder climate naturally calls for it ; but true
thrift, economy in small things, is characteristic
of both nations.
All nations may learn from one another ; as
a rule, English people have much to learn in
the art of thrifty cookery. They have not the
faculty possessed by their neighbours across the
silver streak, of makiuo* a deliofhtful some-
thing out of the despised remains, too often,
alas ! cast away as worthless.
The thrifty bourgeoise, trotting along in the
early morning with her market basket, would
be horrified to see the English butchers' shops
with their piles of stale scraps and trimmings
all thrown to one side, -just beginning to go
bad, and sending out an odour which makes the
ECONOMY AS THE SOUL OF COOKERY. 5
butcher's stall a trial to visit ; the fat portions
and suet all mixed up together, while the prime
joints are being lavishly cut off.
Page 2
Presented as published in 1894. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The real reason — when soup is found to disagree— may generally be traced to its overstrength. It is not intended to furnish solid nutriment, but to supply a want felt by most people for something warm and savoury to begin the meal with, and it will also be found to greatly lessen the thirst for drink afterwards, hence effecting a saving in the wine cupboard.
Among the poor, a simple nourishing vegetable soup would be found of great value, largely dispensing with the, at present, almost inevitable swilling of beer, to which recourse is had so frequently to "wash down" or make up for a dinner often far from appetising.
The saving, also, in the consumption of meat when soup takes the precedence, is no small argument in its favour.
Take, for example, the ordinary mid-day meal of the French "ouvrier." The soup pot has been put on the stove at an early hour; it contains carrots, turnips, potatoes, peas, haricots, leeks, etc., with a " bouquet'' (a variety of herbs) and sorrel in abundance ; the only thing of the nature of meat is a small piece of salted pork, and this, with plenty of water, is left to boil gently until required, often for several hours.
The pork is almost dissolved by this time ; if not, it is cut very small, and returned to the pot, the contents of which go through the "passoir," or colander. It is well seasoned, and is then ready to pour into plates; substantial, satisfying, and with a mighty hunch of bread, this forms the staple of his meal. If he be well off, a piece of meat and a salad may follow this ; but among the poor, a little fruit is thought quite sufficient.
On Sundays, high days, and festivals, he will partake of "bouillon" — a small piece of beef from the leg, boiled with the vegetables, but left clear this time, and the vegetables served on a separate dish — the meat served afterwards.
Of course, in different parts of the country
>
tliis simple menu may vary somewhat, but in southern France, where, if anywhere, economy is to be found in perfection, it rarely consists of anything more.
Among the peasants of the Vosges mountains it is still more simple, their diet, year in, year out, being mainly made up of potatoes, onions, and bread ; yet they are a hardy a sinewy race.
The Swiss peasantry also greatly resemble their French neighbours in their diet, Avith the exception that they eat rather more meat — the colder climate naturally calls for it ; but true thrift, economy in small things, is characteristic of both nations.
All nations may learn from one another ; as a rule, English people have much to learn in the art of thrifty cookery. They have not the faculty possessed by their neighbours across the silver streak, of making a delightful something out of the despised remains, too often, alas ! cast away as worthless.
The thrifty bourgeoise, trotting along in the early morning with her market basket, would be horrified to see the English butchers' shops with their piles of stale scraps and trimmings all thrown to one side, -just beginning to go bad, and sending out an odour which makes the
butcher's stall a trial to visit ; the fat portions and suet all mixed up together, while the prime joints are being lavishly cut off.