FoodNetArchive

Practical gastronomy and culinary dictionary

1892

Page 344

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
What is called the second service on a menu in- cludes the roast, the savoury, and the sweet entremets, the dessert, and cheese. When two or more sweets are served, the first one is to be hot and the other cold. If fancy savouries are given, they come in after the sweets, for they are intended to prepare the palate for the taste of the choice wines which usually follow a good dinner. MENUS AND THEIR COMPILATION 709 In preparing a bill of fare for a large dinner it is advisable to avoid such dishes which are difficult to dress when done in a great number, for they will cause complication and needless profusion in the kitchen, and often lead to a confusion in the service. It is also most unwise to use new names of dishes which are not known, or which may be known under a different title, for they will only puzzle the diner, who might not know the technical names of old dishes. Avoid also the use of pompous names of dishes, especially when the cost for their preparation is not known, for they often lead to confusion and disappointment. The names of high- standing personalities, towns, countries, &c., are applied in connection with many dishes ; the French cuisme especially has the names given to dishes in honour of men who gained their celebrity either by their talent as diplomats, statesmen, soldiers, artists, or such who have distinguished themselves by their gastronomic or epicurean merits. Hence we have such names in con- nection with certain dishes as LucuUus, Savarin, Louis XV., Soubise, Kichelieu, Careme, Maintenon, Conde, Colbert, Villeroy, Talleyrand, Nesselrode, Demi- doff, Marie-Louise, Montglas, Victoria, &c. These names, as well as many others, are associated with various culinary preparations, and are recognised by cooks of all nations. There are, unfortunately, some narrow-minded cuisiniers who are in the habit of altering the genuine names of dishes, to which they adopt some other high- sounding names, in order to make themselves famous, but will only succeed in making themselves look ridi- culous and small in the eyes of a real gourmand, who is not likely to be thus deceived. If, however, the com- position of a certain dish is due to the talent and 710 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY initiative of tlie cook, then the case is different, and he ■will have a perfect right to name such a dish according to his fancy. The importance of a well-composed menu is so great that it adds to the success of a dinner in a great measure, whilst a defectively composed menu may compromise the reputation of a good chef. Although the menu may be of little use to some people, it is in- dispensable to connoisseurs who understand the language of the kitchen, for they will be able to judge the kind of dinner on analysing the menu, and by so doing be able to give their verdict as to the capacity of the chef, according to the arrangement of the dishes and the combination of the ■sdands. MENUS AND THEIR COMPILATION 711 SIX SPECIMEN MENUS OF ENGLISH DINNERS. (1) White celery soup. Codfish and caper sauce. Lobster croquettes. Fillets of beef with olives. Small chartreuses of game. Fricandeau of veal with spinach. Roast turkey and sausages. Broccoli. Potato croquettes. Brussels sprouts. Plum pudding. Mince pies. Stewed pears, whipped cream. Pineapple toast. (2) Clear soup with custard. Baked turbot, wine sauce.