Hand-painted menus on paper, parchment, and satin
are in great favour in all Society circles. Some of the
newest have a miniature of the host or hostess painted
in the centre, and are occasionally the work of noted
artists.
MENUS AND THEIR COMPILATION 707
In England, America, and France mncli art and
luxury have been lavished on menu cards. Parchment
of the Middle Ages competes with Japanese rice-paper.
Some menus, with their seals and ribbons, are like a
charter of nobility, whilst others are in the form of
beautiful miniature fans.
For some time there has been a reaction against
extravagant luxury, which is being replaced by a sim-
plicity not less excessive. Sometimes the names of the
dishes are written by hand on thick paper, without any
ornamentation. As usual, the best kind are between
these excesses of ostentation and severity. Menus of
out-of-the-way and awkward shapes are at all times to be
avoided, because they encumber the table and are
difficult to consult.
Without microscopical print, they should be suffi-
ciently small to be readable without remark, and not add
to the embarrassment caused by a succession of glasses
and other articles on the table. The menu card is a
simple accessory, and should be treated as such. This
rule ought to be taken into consideration when ordering
the shapes and sizes.
When a menu card has too much prominence given
at the table, we run the risk of it being said that " the
dinner on the paper is better than that on the plates."
Among the many points that a cook has to study
in order to be perfect in his profession, the composition
of a menu is undoubtedly one of the most important.
The number of guests for which a meal is to be
provided must first of all be taken into considera-
tion ; then the style — that is to say, whether it is to be
an expensive or plain luncheon, dinner, or supper that
is required, for the menus are generally compiled
according to the means and positions of the guests.
708 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
The bills of fare vary according to the seasons of the
year, and are made up as a rule vdth dishes appropriate
to the times ; there are also certain rules and regula-
tions which must at all times be strictly observed.
In compiling a menu it is necessary to study the
variety of dishes, and their selection, for each dish
should vary by its colour and taste from those served
before or after. The character of dishes must be retained
throughout ; sauces should correspond in taste and
colour with the viands with which they are intended
to be served. If there are two soups quoted on a
menu, one ought to be clear and the other thick ;
should the thick soup be a puree of vegetables, the clear
soup must contain no vegetable roots as garnishing.
When two or more fish are to be served, the first, as
a rule, is boiled, and generally a large fish, such as
turbot, salmon, cod, &c. ; the next one would be a small
fish, either fi-ied or broiled. Whitebait are often served
as a third fish.
The entrees should always be so classified that
light dishes, such as rissoles, bouchees, croquettes,
quenelles, kromeskis, &c., are served first of all.
If there are two removes, poultry is served before
the butcher's meat.
The cardinal point is to have all dressed removes
served before the plain roasted ones.
Page 343
Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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Hand-painted menus on paper, parchment, and satin
are in great favour in all Society circles. Some of the
newest have a miniature of the host or hostess painted
in the centre, and are occasionally the work of noted
artists.
MENUS AND THEIR COMPILATION 707
In England, America, and France mncli art and
luxury have been lavished on menu cards. Parchment
of the Middle Ages competes with Japanese rice-paper.
Some menus, with their seals and ribbons, are like a
charter of nobility, whilst others are in the form of
beautiful miniature fans.
For some time there has been a reaction against
extravagant luxury, which is being replaced by a sim-
plicity not less excessive. Sometimes the names of the
dishes are written by hand on thick paper, without any
ornamentation. As usual, the best kind are between
these excesses of ostentation and severity. Menus of
out-of-the-way and awkward shapes are at all times to be
avoided, because they encumber the table and are
difficult to consult.
Without microscopical print, they should be suffi-
ciently small to be readable without remark, and not add
to the embarrassment caused by a succession of glasses
and other articles on the table. The menu card is a
simple accessory, and should be treated as such. This
rule ought to be taken into consideration when ordering
the shapes and sizes.
When a menu card has too much prominence given
at the table, we run the risk of it being said that " the
dinner on the paper is better than that on the plates."
Among the many points that a cook has to study
in order to be perfect in his profession, the composition
of a menu is undoubtedly one of the most important.
The number of guests for which a meal is to be
provided must first of all be taken into considera-
tion ; then the style — that is to say, whether it is to be
an expensive or plain luncheon, dinner, or supper that
is required, for the menus are generally compiled
according to the means and positions of the guests.
708 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY
The bills of fare vary according to the seasons of the
year, and are made up as a rule vdth dishes appropriate
to the times ; there are also certain rules and regula-
tions which must at all times be strictly observed.
In compiling a menu it is necessary to study the
variety of dishes, and their selection, for each dish
should vary by its colour and taste from those served
before or after. The character of dishes must be retained
throughout ; sauces should correspond in taste and
colour with the viands with which they are intended
to be served. If there are two soups quoted on a
menu, one ought to be clear and the other thick ;
should the thick soup be a puree of vegetables, the clear
soup must contain no vegetable roots as garnishing.
When two or more fish are to be served, the first, as
a rule, is boiled, and generally a large fish, such as
turbot, salmon, cod, &c. ; the next one would be a small
fish, either fi-ied or broiled. Whitebait are often served
as a third fish.
The entrees should always be so classified that
light dishes, such as rissoles, bouchees, croquettes,
quenelles, kromeskis, &c., are served first of all.
If there are two removes, poultry is served before
the butcher's meat.
The cardinal point is to have all dressed removes
served before the plain roasted ones.