In the early Protestant days meat was no doubt eaten
with a religious zeal, and the cultivation and cooking of
vegetables was utterly neglected. The old gardens of the
monasteries ran to ruin even quicker than the fish-ponds.
It became a point of national honour to disregard the
methods of cooking vegetables which had been brought
by the monks, who were men of taste, from France and
Italy. Proper cooking alone makes ordinary vegetables
palatable, and improves even the very best. The extra-
ordinary development of the vegetable, fruit, and flower
trade is one of the most marked changes of my lifetime.
When I was young, it was impossible in the West End of
London to buy any flowers at all in the streets or shops.
If we did not winter in the South of France, but remained
in London, we had to go to some nursery gardens that
lay between Eutland Gate and Kensington in order to
buy a few Violets.
Froude says, about another strange effect of the Ee-
formation, 'It probably, more than any other cause,
stopped the development of painting in England. Holbein
had no pupils. Zuccaro left the country in disgust. All
portraits that remain were painted by foreigners.' The
150 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
worst kings from the political point of view have been
the best from that of painting. Charles I. was no excep-
tion to the rule, and his magnificent gallery was sold
by Parliament in 1645 for 38,OOOZ., apparently without
protest.
Of all the months in the year, this is perhaps the one
in which the keenest amateur can best afford to leave
home ; and if I do not go away, it is the one I can best
spare to my gardener for his holiday. In August hope,
as far as the year is concerned, is over. There is nothing
that imperatively requires doing ; nearly all there is to do
can be as well done in July or September. After deciding
to leave home I gave instructions that the young French
Beans and Scarlet Eunners should be picked over, almost
daily, so that none should grow coarse and old ; and that
the cook should lay them separately, as they were brought
in, in large earthenware pans — a handful of Beans and
then a handful of salt, and so on till the pan was full.
This is an excellent method ; and I have eaten them, pre-
served in this way, all through the winter. I believe this
is done everywhere abroad, but never in England, where
the waste, both in the kitchen and the garden, is, as we all
acknowledge, a national vice. Of course the Beans in the
salt must not be allowed to get touched by frost in the
autumn. When wanted, they are taken out, well soaked (to
prevent their being too salt), boiled in the ordinary way —
cut up or whole, as we like them best — then drained, and
warmed up in fresh butter, a squeeze of lemon and a little
chopped Parsley on the top. They can also be cooked
with a white cream sauce. All this is well described for
fresh Beans in ' Dainty Dishes.' I think these salted
Beans have more flavour than the tinned ones, or than
those that come from Madeira in the winter. Besides,
the principle of utilising everything in a garden should
never be lost sight of.
AUGUST 151
Page 89
Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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In the early Protestant days meat was no doubt eaten
with a religious zeal, and the cultivation and cooking of
vegetables was utterly neglected. The old gardens of the
monasteries ran to ruin even quicker than the fish-ponds.
It became a point of national honour to disregard the
methods of cooking vegetables which had been brought
by the monks, who were men of taste, from France and
Italy. Proper cooking alone makes ordinary vegetables
palatable, and improves even the very best. The extra-
ordinary development of the vegetable, fruit, and flower
trade is one of the most marked changes of my lifetime.
When I was young, it was impossible in the West End of
London to buy any flowers at all in the streets or shops.
If we did not winter in the South of France, but remained
in London, we had to go to some nursery gardens that
lay between Eutland Gate and Kensington in order to
buy a few Violets.
Froude says, about another strange effect of the Ee-
formation, 'It probably, more than any other cause,
stopped the development of painting in England. Holbein
had no pupils. Zuccaro left the country in disgust. All
portraits that remain were painted by foreigners.' The
150 POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN
worst kings from the political point of view have been
the best from that of painting. Charles I. was no excep-
tion to the rule, and his magnificent gallery was sold
by Parliament in 1645 for 38,OOOZ., apparently without
protest.
Of all the months in the year, this is perhaps the one
in which the keenest amateur can best afford to leave
home ; and if I do not go away, it is the one I can best
spare to my gardener for his holiday. In August hope,
as far as the year is concerned, is over. There is nothing
that imperatively requires doing ; nearly all there is to do
can be as well done in July or September. After deciding
to leave home I gave instructions that the young French
Beans and Scarlet Eunners should be picked over, almost
daily, so that none should grow coarse and old ; and that
the cook should lay them separately, as they were brought
in, in large earthenware pans — a handful of Beans and
then a handful of salt, and so on till the pan was full.
This is an excellent method ; and I have eaten them, pre-
served in this way, all through the winter. I believe this
is done everywhere abroad, but never in England, where
the waste, both in the kitchen and the garden, is, as we all
acknowledge, a national vice. Of course the Beans in the
salt must not be allowed to get touched by frost in the
autumn. When wanted, they are taken out, well soaked (to
prevent their being too salt), boiled in the ordinary way —
cut up or whole, as we like them best — then drained, and
warmed up in fresh butter, a squeeze of lemon and a little
chopped Parsley on the top. They can also be cooked
with a white cream sauce. All this is well described for
fresh Beans in ' Dainty Dishes.' I think these salted
Beans have more flavour than the tinned ones, or than
those that come from Madeira in the winter. Besides,
the principle of utilising everything in a garden should
never be lost sight of.
AUGUST 151