Angling has always been a fascinating sport to most men,
although the spectator is rather inclined to agree with the
cynic, who defined it as a rod with a worm at one end and
a fool at the other ; but it doubtless exercises the patience
and skill as well as the strength of the fisherman, especially
where the lordly salmon is the prey, for the landing of such
fish as we sometimes see on the fishmonger's slab, must
be a feat of considerable strength and agility, as well as
patience.
The enthusiasm inspired by the sport was rather amus-
ingly illustrated by a newspaper correspondent some time
since, who wrote : — ' On one occasion in Ireland, our train
was brought almost to a standstill by a river, "just to see
if the gentleman would land his salmon," and not a single
remonstrance was heard from the passengers, who entered
into the matter as warmly as the driver and guard, and
cheered enthusiastically when a fine fish was brought safely
to the bank.'
To enumerate the various fishes good for food would be
impossible. In a certain sense, the proverb, 'All's fish
that comes to net ' is literally true, for there is hardly a
monster of the deep— from the great whale to the porpoise
132 OUR VIANDS
and the seal — that is not deemed gcod for food by some ;
whilst the tiniest of sea-creatures, such as whitebait and
shrimps, and the ugliest, such as sea-slugs and anglers, are
all esteemed delicacies by others. It will be remembered
that the unfortunate Greely and his companion?, during
their terrible sufferings in the Arctic regions, had to sustain
life for weeks on small shrimps, or sea-fleas ; and many a
shipwrecked mariner has been glad to gather limpets and
mussels to appease his hunger.
Along the shores of Great Britain and Ireland the herring,
1 Bonnie fish and halesome farm',' holds the first place
among the fisheries, and many hundreds of boats are
employed in this industry on the east and north coasts
of Great Britain, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. In the
latter interesting little island the herring is, or was, the
staple food of the people, and the chosen emblem of
justice, the deemsters or judges taking the singular oath
that they will administer justice as evenly * as the backbone
of the herring lieth in the middle of the fish.' *
In Cornwall, the herring gives place to its first cousin,
the pilchard, a smaller and fatter fish, from which a large
quantity of oil is extracted. These pilchards, when cured
as herrings, are known as 'fair maid?,' and are largely
exported to Italy and the south of France, where they
are eaten by the peasantry during Lent. The pilgrims
who visit Rome during Holy Week, and whose feet are
washed by the noble ladies and gentlemen of the Eternal
City, are all feasted (?) upon a dish of salad, with one of
* The vast consumption of herrings in olden times may be judged
from the fact that the tax levied upon almost all seaports, in the reigns
of the early kings, consisted of from 50,000 to 100,000 herrings annually.
FISH I33
these pilchards on the top, and a roll of bread, not very
substantial fare after a long and toilsome pilgrimage.
Our viands
1893Page 64
Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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Angling has always been a fascinating sport to most men,
although the spectator is rather inclined to agree with the
cynic, who defined it as a rod with a worm at one end and
a fool at the other ; but it doubtless exercises the patience
and skill as well as the strength of the fisherman, especially
where the lordly salmon is the prey, for the landing of such
fish as we sometimes see on the fishmonger's slab, must
be a feat of considerable strength and agility, as well as
patience.
The enthusiasm inspired by the sport was rather amus-
ingly illustrated by a newspaper correspondent some time
since, who wrote : — ' On one occasion in Ireland, our train
was brought almost to a standstill by a river, "just to see
if the gentleman would land his salmon," and not a single
remonstrance was heard from the passengers, who entered
into the matter as warmly as the driver and guard, and
cheered enthusiastically when a fine fish was brought safely
to the bank.'
To enumerate the various fishes good for food would be
impossible. In a certain sense, the proverb, 'All's fish
that comes to net ' is literally true, for there is hardly a
monster of the deep— from the great whale to the porpoise
132 OUR VIANDS
and the seal — that is not deemed gcod for food by some ;
whilst the tiniest of sea-creatures, such as whitebait and
shrimps, and the ugliest, such as sea-slugs and anglers, are
all esteemed delicacies by others. It will be remembered
that the unfortunate Greely and his companion?, during
their terrible sufferings in the Arctic regions, had to sustain
life for weeks on small shrimps, or sea-fleas ; and many a
shipwrecked mariner has been glad to gather limpets and
mussels to appease his hunger.
Along the shores of Great Britain and Ireland the herring,
1 Bonnie fish and halesome farm',' holds the first place
among the fisheries, and many hundreds of boats are
employed in this industry on the east and north coasts
of Great Britain, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. In the
latter interesting little island the herring is, or was, the
staple food of the people, and the chosen emblem of
justice, the deemsters or judges taking the singular oath
that they will administer justice as evenly * as the backbone
of the herring lieth in the middle of the fish.' *
In Cornwall, the herring gives place to its first cousin,
the pilchard, a smaller and fatter fish, from which a large
quantity of oil is extracted. These pilchards, when cured
as herrings, are known as 'fair maid?,' and are largely
exported to Italy and the south of France, where they
are eaten by the peasantry during Lent. The pilgrims
who visit Rome during Holy Week, and whose feet are
washed by the noble ladies and gentlemen of the Eternal
City, are all feasted (?) upon a dish of salad, with one of
* The vast consumption of herrings in olden times may be judged
from the fact that the tax levied upon almost all seaports, in the reigns
of the early kings, consisted of from 50,000 to 100,000 herrings annually.
FISH I33
these pilchards on the top, and a roll of bread, not very
substantial fare after a long and toilsome pilgrimage.