Our viands

Among the curious kinds of cabbage must also be reckoned the kohl-rabi, which is something between — or, rather, a combination of — the cabbage and the turnip, the stem of the cabbage swelling out just above the roots, and forming a round, turnip-like mass, which in this country is only grown — and that very sparingly — as food for cattle ; but which, among the Dutch at the Cape, as well as on the * The staple food of Russian peasants consists of black rye-bread and cabbage broth thickened with oatmeal, to which salt fish is some- times added, PULSE AND CABBAGE 235 Continent of Europe, especially in Germany, is greatly esteemed as a vegetable, and, when properly cooked, is very delicious. Both parts are used : the green leaves are cooked like spinach, and put round the dish, whilst the turnip part is cut into strips, boiled tender, and placed in the centre, thus forming an ornamental and very appetising addition to the dinner-table, which might be advantageously introduced into England; but the prejudices of our cooks are not easily overcome. It is hard to convince them that what 'furriners' and cattle eat, can be good for Englishmen, although we are glad to see in the greengrocers' shops everywhere now, the large and very delicious cow cabbage, one of which is sufficient for a dozen men. Perhaps, some day the kohl-rabi also may appear on the market, instead of being, as at present, occasionally exhibited at agricultural shows as good food for cattle, in which exhibits, size is the great recommendation j whereas for cooking purposes, the smaller plants are preferable, and they should, of course, be taken when both leaves and bulb are young and tender. Next to ordinary cabbage, the savoy ranks as a favourite for winter use, and is best when seen with frost shining on its outer wrinkled leaves : whilst the different varieties of cauliflower and brocoli now appear in the market all the year round, the latter being sent up to Covent Garden during the winter from Cornwall, where it has become a great source of profit since the railway has allowed of its rapid transmission to London. The favourite manure employed for the brocoli fields is old rags, which are sent over by the shipload from Ireland, and stacked for use, being spread over the fields as required, without further manipulation — a practice which appears open to objection 236 OUR VIANDS on sanitary grounds, although we have never heard any complaint on that score. Certainly the brocoli seems to thrive luxuriantly amidst the old coats of 'Paddy from Cork.' Seakale (Crambe maritime?) grows wild on our sea coasts, and we are told in Rhind's * History of the Vegetable Kingdom ' that bundles of it were seen in the Chichester market in 1753. Since that time it has been cultivated with care, and has now become one of the most delicate and highly-prized of our winter vegetables. Grown in darkness under pots made for the purpose, and covered up warmly, it comes to table white and tender, just at the time most needed ; but its price makes it a luxury, so that it can never become a poor man's vegetable. A very good substitute for it may, however, be found in the sprouting brocoli, the tender stems and purple flowers of which in the early spring are almost equal in flavour to asparagus.