A curious fact regarding leguminous plants is mentioned
in Rhind's 'History of the Vegetable Kingdom,' which
is that they generate so much carbonic acid gas, especially
when flowering, that in mining districts the overseers have
to guard against the deadly gas sinking into the pits and
causing the death of the miners, by especial ventilation
PULSE AND CABBAGE 233
during the bean season. We do not remember to have
seen anything of the kind mentioned elsewhere, and it is
perhaps an exploded idea. Of late years green peas tinned,
have been largely imported from France, and are excellent
eating, but some in bottles, preserved in England, are still
better; we also get from America, Boston baked beans, and
succotash, which is Indian com mixed with beans, and very
good as a winter vegetable.
The vegetable which was in universal use before the
potato was known, still holds its place as second in public
estimation ; this is cabbage, which in its wild state appears
to be indigenous in England, as well as on the Continent of
Europe, but in its cultivated form came to us first, we are
told, through the Romans, although the many varieties of
this useful plant which are now sold in our markets and
served on our tables are of later introduction, and come
from various countries. According to Candolle, the wild
cabbage of the Mediterranean is the parent of all our
varieties.
Dr. Lindley divides cabbage into five classes, the first of
which includes kail as grown in Scotch kailyards — that is,
cabbage in which the leaves are loose and do not turn into
a head. — In the second class we find Brussels sprouts ; in
the third, common cabbage, savoys, etc. ; in the fourth,
cauliflower and brocoli ; in the fifth, kohl-rabi.
According to Columella, cabbage was a favourite food
with Roman freemen, and was sufficiently abundant to be
given also to slaves. Cromwell's soldiers are credited with
its introduction into Scotland, but we can hardly believe
that it was unknown to Scotland at so late a date. The
close-hearted variety was imported from Holland, until Sir
234 OUR VIANDS
Anthony Ashley brought it into cultivation in England. It
is said that a cabbage is sculptured at the feet of this
gentleman on his monument in Wimborne Minster, Dorset,
but according to all accounts he was not altogether an
admirable personage, although he rendered a great benefit
to the gardeners of this country by the introduction of the
cabbage, which in some form serves as food for rich and
poor all the year round.
Sir Anthony Ashley brought his cabbage, it is said, in
more forms than one, from Cales (Cadiz), where he held a
command and grew rich by t iking unlawful possession of
other men's goods, and especially by appropriating some
jewels entrusted to him by a lady; hence he is said to have
got more by Cales (Cadiz) than by Cale (cabbage). This,
perhaps, may be the origin of our term to cabbage. A curious
cabbage is found in the Channel Islands. It grows to 8 or
even 16 feet in height, and throws out branches from the
central stem, which is so hard and woody that walking-
sticks are made of it, and it is used as rafters for cottage
roofs. Then there is the Portugal cabbage, the mid-ribs of
which are cooked like seakale.*
Our viands
1893Page 117
Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
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A curious fact regarding leguminous plants is mentioned
in Rhind's 'History of the Vegetable Kingdom,' which
is that they generate so much carbonic acid gas, especially
when flowering, that in mining districts the overseers have
to guard against the deadly gas sinking into the pits and
causing the death of the miners, by especial ventilation
PULSE AND CABBAGE 233
during the bean season. We do not remember to have
seen anything of the kind mentioned elsewhere, and it is
perhaps an exploded idea. Of late years green peas tinned,
have been largely imported from France, and are excellent
eating, but some in bottles, preserved in England, are still
better; we also get from America, Boston baked beans, and
succotash, which is Indian com mixed with beans, and very
good as a winter vegetable.
The vegetable which was in universal use before the
potato was known, still holds its place as second in public
estimation ; this is cabbage, which in its wild state appears
to be indigenous in England, as well as on the Continent of
Europe, but in its cultivated form came to us first, we are
told, through the Romans, although the many varieties of
this useful plant which are now sold in our markets and
served on our tables are of later introduction, and come
from various countries. According to Candolle, the wild
cabbage of the Mediterranean is the parent of all our
varieties.
Dr. Lindley divides cabbage into five classes, the first of
which includes kail as grown in Scotch kailyards — that is,
cabbage in which the leaves are loose and do not turn into
a head. — In the second class we find Brussels sprouts ; in
the third, common cabbage, savoys, etc. ; in the fourth,
cauliflower and brocoli ; in the fifth, kohl-rabi.
According to Columella, cabbage was a favourite food
with Roman freemen, and was sufficiently abundant to be
given also to slaves. Cromwell's soldiers are credited with
its introduction into Scotland, but we can hardly believe
that it was unknown to Scotland at so late a date. The
close-hearted variety was imported from Holland, until Sir
234 OUR VIANDS
Anthony Ashley brought it into cultivation in England. It
is said that a cabbage is sculptured at the feet of this
gentleman on his monument in Wimborne Minster, Dorset,
but according to all accounts he was not altogether an
admirable personage, although he rendered a great benefit
to the gardeners of this country by the introduction of the
cabbage, which in some form serves as food for rich and
poor all the year round.
Sir Anthony Ashley brought his cabbage, it is said, in
more forms than one, from Cales (Cadiz), where he held a
command and grew rich by t iking unlawful possession of
other men's goods, and especially by appropriating some
jewels entrusted to him by a lady; hence he is said to have
got more by Cales (Cadiz) than by Cale (cabbage). This,
perhaps, may be the origin of our term to cabbage. A curious
cabbage is found in the Channel Islands. It grows to 8 or
even 16 feet in height, and throws out branches from the
central stem, which is so hard and woody that walking-
sticks are made of it, and it is used as rafters for cottage
roofs. Then there is the Portugal cabbage, the mid-ribs of
which are cooked like seakale.*