Experimental cookery

tion the meshwork of gluten has become separated into fine filaments. If kneaded too hard just before being put in the pan these filaments are packed together and as a result a thicker cell wall is produced. The experiments of Dunlap are of particular interest. At the Bureau of Chemistry in Washington, he and two other operators mixed dough. The only difference in the mixing was the way the dough was kneaded or punched after the first mixing by the different operators. Dunlap's descrip- tion follows. "In these experiments the three operators used identical formulas and ingredients in preparing the dough batches. The mixers were all started at the same time, the water and shortening were added at the identical instant, and the extent of the mixing was absolutely uniform. All fermentations were carried out in the same cabinet and at the same time and for the same period. All punches were synchronous and the work- ing or punching of the dough was uniform, that is, the doughs were w^orked or punched with the hand 40 times after the first rise and 30 times after the second. The doughs went to the same proofing cabinet and at the same time. In fact uniformity so far as was humanly possible prevailed through- out. When the bakes came from the oven, the results were very illumi- nating for despite the care taken, they were far from uniform." These experiments were repeated several times with the same results. In later experiments carried on in another laboratory, Dunlap decided he had punished the dough too hard or used too much pressure in punch- ing it, especially for the last working. He states, ''Putting this idea to the test and handling the doughs with a degree of gentleness previously un- known in my method of operation, results were produced incomparably better than anything previously obtained." Applying these results it can be stated that the first mixing and knead- ing, when the gluten is developed, should be thorough, but may not need heavy pressure, and the second and third kneading should be done with light pressure and should not be continued for too long a period. The mixing of the bread in the bowl should be continued until the dough forms in a ball and cleans the side of the bowl. If a bread mixer is used it may mix and knead at the same time. For the first kneading, only a thin film of flour should be used on the board, unless far too much liquid has been added. Inexperienced bread makers usually add too much flour in kneading, for in mixing by hand the dough should be sticky when kneading is begun. After the gluten is developed it no longer sticks to the hands or board. In molding, use very little or preferably no flour, for flour added at this stage may produce streaks in the bread, since this flour is not fermented for the whole period. Greasing of bowl and pans. The bowl that the dough is allowed to rise in should have only a thin film of fat to grease the bowl, or it is not necessary to use any. Heavy greasing may produce streaks in the bread. Harrel found that bread baked in ungreased pans gave a better volume and oven spring than bread baked in greased pans. This indicates that the FERMENTATION 431 dough clings to the sides of the pan during rising, and this adhesion aids in attaining a better volume. But greasing the bottom of the pan expedites removal of the bread.