FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 173

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Length of time required for ripening. The length of time required for ripening varies according to the degree of ripened flavor desired, and the temperature at which the meat is stored. As the temperature is elevated the time for ripening is shortened. At temperatures a little above the freezing point of meat, 20 to 40 days seems to give the optimum flavor. Longer than 40 days gives too high a flavor for most persons. Helser says, "When ripened meat is properly trimmed and prepared there will be no mold flavor at all, but you will have a rich, juicy, tender, and w^ell-flavored piece of meat. One trial will convince anyone." Finished carcasses are best for ripening. Helser states that well-finished carcasses are best suited for ripening purposes. Meat from carcasses of animals that contain little fat "will get sticky, mold, and will have to be trimmed heavily to avoid the moldy flavor." The layer of fat on the outside of the prime beef and the greater quantity of fat in the muscle fibers pre- vent the putrefactive bacteria from developing. Ripened meat develops a growth of mold on the surface of the meat that must be removed before cooking. Helser states: "The degree of ripeness is judged largely by the length of the 'whiskers,' as the mold is sometimes called." Changes in cooked beef due to ripening. Helser, Nelson, and Lowe have found that roasts from the same animal, refrigerated under the same con- ditions, show several distinct changes in cooking from that of fresh beef. All the roasts were cooked at the same oven temperature and to the same interior temperature. Roasts cooked after 10, 20, 40, and 60 days of storage show a progressively gray color in the interior of the cooked roasts. Roasts cooked to an inner temperature of 57°C. and cooked on the fifth, seventh, and tenth days of storage were a bright red color ; w^hereas those ripened 60 days have only a little red or rose color. Roasts from calves are less red and more gray in color than roasts from older animals. Roasts from ripened beef brown more readily — and this is true for both the fat and lean — than unripened roasts from the same animal, cooked under the same conditions. In these experiments the results of scores for palatability indicate that "in order to produce beef for roasts having the most desirable beef flavor, steers should be at least 20 months old, and preferably 30." After the passing of rigor the roasts are more tender and become in- creasingly tender with length of storage. Although the tenderness of the meat increases with storage, the increase after 20 days of storage is prob- ably not great enough to pay for the increased cost and trouble of storing. With longer storage the roasts are more juicy. Also with ripening the quantity of juice collecting in the platter when the roast is carved is de- cidedly greater than for roasts cooked after 10 days or less than 10 days of storage. The flavor of the beef improved with ripening, and the maximum CHANGES OCCURRING IN MEAT 217 development of flavor, under the refrigeration conditions used, came with 20 to 40 days of storage. For the connoisseur of flavor, this improved flavor is decidedly worth the cost of storage.