FoodNet

Experimental cookery

1932

Page 172

Presented as published in 1932. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
It had previously been found without exception that the amount of soluble protein is decreased during rigor; but Smith found no change in solubility of the proteins in his investigation. RIPENED MEAT 215 Passing of rigor from muscles. After a lapse of time rigor passes off. The length of time varies with the speed with which rigor developed, with different conditions and temperatures of storage, and with different animals. It may require 5 to 6 days or longer at refrigeration temperature and a shorter period at higher temperatures. It passes more rapidly from a carcass in which rigor develops early. With the passing of rigor the muscles be- come more soft and flexible. One observation that the author's family often made was that chickens killed and stored before cooking over night in the cellar were more tender than chickens cooked and eaten the same day they were killed. The temperature of the cellar was higher than that of a refrigerator, and the chickens were often chased before killing; these fac- tors probably affected the time required for the passing of rigor. The greatest physical change with passing of rigor is the increasing tenderness of the meat. Ripened meat. Noticeable changes that characterize ripened meat, meat from w^hich rigor has passed and which has stood some time, are increased tenderness, change in flavor, and increased ease with which juice may be pressed from the meat. The last is probably related to the increased juiciness of the cooked, ripened meat. Emmett and Grindley have reviewed the literature on changes in meat during storage. The report of the work of Grassman is from their summary. In experiments reported by Hoagland et a!., for beef stored just above the freezing point of the meat from 17 to 177 days, it is interesting to note that all judges agreed that the flavor and tenderness of the meat are im- proved with 15 to 30 days of storage. With storage for 45 days and longer, they speak of an "old," "gamey," and "off" flavor. From the comments one is led to believe that they like the meat stored for 56 days better than that stored for 45 days. This was probably due to differences in the char- acter of the quarters of beef from different animals. With longer storage the flavor was not palatable, "old" and "off" being used to describe the flavor developed. Grassman has reported ripened meat as being more juicy, of better flavor, and more tender than unripened meat. He adds that ripening meat to the extent preferred by the English for roasting is not good for boiling, as it imparts a disagreeable flavor to the broth. Whether one prefers the flavor of ripened meat or that of fresh meat is largely a matter of personal choice. It is hard to describe the flavor of ripened meat, probably because there are no descriptive terms which convey the same meaning to different people. Ripened meat is more acid, is richer in flavor, and has more of a high or game flavor. Ripening may also improve the flavor of the fat of the beef. The fat from some animals develops a better flavor with ripening than that of other animals. When it is improved, the flavor of the fat is more agreeable and more mellow. However, the kind of feed the animal has received, as well as the age, sex. 216 MEAT breed of animal, and the amount of fat may influence the flavor of the meat and the fat.