The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

famous in Normandy as Madame Bougay's breakfast eggs were in New Orleans. For drinks champagne cider, sparkling and heady, and the native Calvados. Try the pre-Civil War apple jack, bottled in i860. Besides being a fat, creamy cuisine, Normandy is further enriched by her fermented and distilled apple juice. The use of both cider and Calvados in one dish, with apple marmalade on the side, as in the oie en daube above, sets her aside from the usual wine-cooking of France. But the fact that she is the proud mother of the soft and aromatic cheeses, Camembert, Port-Salut and Pont-1'eveque brings her back into the fold. In the Normandy town where Camembert originated there is a stately statue to the lady who invented it. Today there is the "Syndicat du Vrai Camembert" which stamps its proud name on the tiny round wooden boxes of the genuine article. For a distinctive sweet try the apple marmalade souffle with whipped cream and Calvados ablaze (see recipe). Champagne QUAIL IN HOT ASHES (Cailles a la C end re) For each pair of birds: 2 slices bacon, minced % teaspoon minced thyme 1 chicken liver, chopped 1 egg Yi cup bread crumbs 1 tablespoon brandy Salt and pepper 2 4-inch squares salt pork 2 tablespoons chopped truffles Butter 1 teaspoon minced parsley Dry toast Season birds inside and out. Fry bacon; add chicken liver with chopped quail liver and fry 2 minutes. Mix with bread crumbs soaked in water and squeezed dry, seasonings, truffles, parsley and thyme. Then add egg and brandy. Stuff birds with this dressing. Bind salt pork over breast of each and truss legs and wings with same twine. Then wrap in grape leaves (if at hand) . Wrap in well-buttered paper, doubling edges together and turning in ends; wrap each in second buttered paper in same manner to make sure no juices escape. If possible cook in hot wood embers; otherwise set beneath hot grill with door open and turn frequently. When papers are removed be careful to save all juices. Serve on dry toast. If this dish is being prepared in a hunting camp, truffled pate de foie gras out of a tin may be substituted for fresh chicken livers and fresh truffles. Perigord PARTRIDGE PERIGUEUX (Perdreau a la Perigueux) Y2 pound truffles, chopped Salt and pepper 3 ounces fat bacon, chopped Bacon slices i pair partridges Sauce Perigueux Grind truffles and chopped bacon together, putting them through the grinder several times to mix thoroughly and reduce to a mass. Put mixture into a small sauce pan and heat and stir. As soon as heated through, remove from fire and cool. Salt and pepper birds inside and out, and stuff. Wrap in bacon slices, and tie securely. Leave on ice for 2 days. Wrap in buttered paper and bake in quick oven. Remove paper and let brown. Remove twine. Dish up, and serve with Perigueux Sauce. SAUCE PERIGUEUX 1 small onion, chopped l/2 cup Madeira 1 shallot, chopped 1 herb bouquet *4 pound raw ham, chopped % cup brown gravy 2 tablespoons butter *4 cup minced truffles Salt and pepper Slowly fry onion, shallot, and ham in butter until slightly browned. Add Madeira and bouquet. Simmer until reduced one-half, add gravy, boil up, strain, and press through a sieve. Add truffles, season highly, cook 3 minutes, and serve. Nivernais PARTRIDGE OR PHEASANT WITH SAUERKRAUT (Perdreaux ou Faisan a la Choucroute)